Americana ..... stuff that can only happen here!

The Diners - Each town has it's themed Doners.  We went into a Marolyn Munroe diner - wherever you looked she was smiling back. I must say that for her to be all over tje men's 'restrpom' was enough to put an ancient cyclist off his aim!  Fat Freddies as seen in previous blog, had old black & white pics of the bad old days just after John Wayne had opened up Oregon with the first wagon train - it looked a hard life. We have been in a couple with juke boxes and 'The Fonze' would not look out of place

The Bike shop in Florence - doubles up as a guitar and ukelele shop - run  by a great bloke with a very dodgy eye.You think I am big for cyclist this guy was big  with a wicked sence of humour and as he said he takes all the 3xl clothing but fixed my bike

Taxi into Coos City - John turned up when we ordered a taxi - he was the star of the hillbilly karioke folk and ex special forces - spent all day we us for $40 and appologised. He thinks the Chinese will shoot down the satelites and the US ecconomy will colapse. There is no sales tax in Oregon but some folk who have come up from California think there should be - he does not want Oregon Cali'fornicated' - great word.
Lunch stop - we stopped for lunch at a fading cafe in the middle of not a lot. It took us while to work out the kind of place it was - you could get 25cent dirty pics out of a machine in the men's room - there were other hints around, we speculated about the lady serving and thought she was probably the ' Madam'. Pat kindly possed for a pic but had no idea about the sign.

Stormbound...

I am in Starbucks with 40 mph winds outside - Pat is in the clutches of the medics trying to get some meds for his knees. I thought ypu may be interested in the antics of some wino's on a stormy

night in a motel in the middle of nowhere.
Karioke in the backwoods.Singing with the hillbillies - they fitted right in.

A funny thing happened ..........

Neskpwen - who wet the bed? InNeskowen we were in a 'Vacation Rental' property next to the ocean. There was a queen bed, a single bed and a small pullout bed. Pat drew the short straw and had the small pullout, I drew the long straw and had the queen which left Michael with the single which doubled up as a couch. After a great meal and some good wine it was time for bed.As Michael crawled in he felt a wet patch - what a comotion -someones wet the bed, the last asxxxxx who slept in here wet it- Michael cried. With much ado and rearrangement of bedding he eventually settled down. Next morning we left early but Michael complained to the owners - straight away they gave a full refund. - a free night. It is highly probable that as we were soaking wet when we went in that someone put a wet pannier on the bed and left a wet patch but Michael is not convinced.
The shouting lorry driver.  Pat and I had gone ahead to the Post Office and Michael was behind by  a couple of hundred yards gping slowly looking for the turn off. He was meandering along the road with an 18 wheeler about 2 feet behind him.He was oblivios to the hold up. Once he turned off the lorry driver let rip - you fxxxxing Asxxxxxx you mother this and mother that - I am not sure I haver such a display of public swearing for many a year.
Today we were hoping for a good flatish ride thro the dunes. Flat - no - a couple of big hills. The weather was good in the morning but by 2 pm the rain was heavy and unending - we have sort refuge in a Motel in Lakeside about 10 miles short of Coos City where we wre heading. We may be here a couple of days as more storms arecomming in.
We are well over half way down Oregan and over 700 miles into the trip.

When the going gets tough........

What I forgot to mention was when we were stormbound in Cape Lookout we had no food.

We had bought enough for our evening meal but nothing for the next day. Michael wandered into the car park with a lean and hungry look begging for food. A very nice couple escaping back to Portland unloaded there spare food - chicken, bagela, cheese, nachos, soup and much more. We fed well.

Back to now - we left Depoe under dark skys and headed to Newport and an appointment with a bike shop to change my bottom bracket. Parts ordered in Astoria and within an hour we were on our way - yet another very helpful and friendly cycle shop.
The sun came out and the roads dried and we had a great afternpon in the warm glow of the sun. We camped by the river in Waldport at the marina and had a fantastic plate of ribs at Brads - great home cooking.
Hard day today - some big climbs with some fantastic views. Great long beaches and huge cliffs with crashing waves but we worked hard. Towards the end we were all flagging a little and we were then overtaken by a young lady - Michael spurted on to catch her - no chance I said but he is a trier if nothing else.

We are in Florence in a very ordinary motel.  Weather is good and all is well.
Odo 670.

Stuttering thro Oregon.....

So the morning of Saturday 21st the group decimated. The magnificent severn rode out of Vancouver, with Gilly and Di departing to rejoin later the famous five continued and with J & M moving ahead and blazing the trail the The Three Musketteers stagger onwards. We cycled to Cape Lookout State Park and errected our tents on a balmy evening by the sea. You have heard of the storm approaching asked the Rangers? What storm? we replied meekly. The one with 50 to 60 mph winds they said!Oh bu.... we said. Perhaps they have over stated things said the Rangers and it will not get here til morning. Morning came and we were in deep poo!Any cabins available we asked?You jest they said- these cabins are booked months in advance.Nothing to it but to tough it out. Then a very nice Ranger informed us that they had a cabin cancellation - we were in like Flin. Lucky or what - it was a ferocios day.

We have now staggered down this fantastic coast with it's amazing headlands and beaches, it's small towns, funny little diners and massive hills but we are still in the rain. We soldier on until lunch time and then seek shelter. We are now in Depoe Bay - a motel with a jacuzzi and a restaurant with proper wine - a good port in a storm. Weather

a bit iffy for the next day or 2 and then we hope to see some sun. As Pat said - it would be nice to cycle on a dry road sometime in Oregon.
Odo 600 - over a quater gone.

Much has happened ......

We headed south down the Oregon coast in fabulous weather after a well earned rest in Astoria. With tuned-up bikes we made good time to Cannon Beach. We camped in a great little campsite on the sdge of town and decided to have a late lunch in town and an evening meal in camp. Tipping in the US is 20% as oppossed to 10% in UK but when your waiter spills your beer and it takes 2 or 3 requests to get anything plus he was unable to split the bill I thought 20% was definately too much. Perhaps I was  bit harsh and Pat thought he may come charging down the road after us but I think if service is not up to scratch then tips should reflectbit. (maybe 5% was a bit hard).
The Oregon coast is hilly with some humdingers over the headlands and on our way to Rockaway Beach I was knackerood by lunchtime. We were on a headland at about 800ft when the weather came in- rain, wind, mist - the full works. By the time we dropped down to civilisation we were in torential rain. We sheltered and had lunch in a diner and watche

d the rain pelt down. I realy did not want to on but Jim & Marlene are built of sterner stuff and out into the weather we went. Unfortunately Michael has a cold problem with his hands and he was unable to work his gears and brakes properly. Not good in driving rain. We stopped and sort shelter. This brought to the surface a conflict (in the nicest terms) within the group with Jom and Marlene wishing to push on and us weak and feeble southerners being less adventurous.So we agreed to part compny. J & M are now miles ahead of us and we stutter on at our sedantry pace.

Welcome to Oregon part 2 ..........

Being a simple soul, sometimes this modern technology defeats me - hence I have to do it in parts as the bloggy thing does not allow me to do what I want.
So I am now sitting in the laundromat washing the smelly clothes of 3 stinky old men, and believe me the smell was almost over powering as I took the clothes out of my panniers. I have been helped in my domestic chores by a very nice young lady. Talking of beeing helped the Bike shop here could not have been more helpful. Scott and his team set to on our bikes with a smile and lots of humour.My wheel sorted and a part ordered for fitting in Newport down the road. Micheals stand fitted and wheel straightened. New pedal for Pat and a chain and tune up for Jim - what a contrast to the shower in Silverdale!
Well done to Bikes & Beyond.
So we have knocked pff Washington and look forward with anticipation to the hills of Oregon.
Our Odo is 462 miles

Welcome to Oregon part 1.....

We are resting in Astoria. We dropped down to the mighty Columbia River and pedalled along the north bank. Busy highway with logging lorriies. However it is not the professional drivers who we need to worry about it is the idiots in the big R/V's who are likely to kill us. We have had some near misses.
The route was hilly - we had an early start and pushed on. We picked up supplies in Longville and cruised.I was getting hungry and after 30 miles there was a great spot with tables right by the river. However our trailblazer - Jim had other ideas and sped straight past. The mood in the pack was darkening. Up hills down hills until eventually even Jim was wilting. So in a grotty little layby with rubish all around and logging lorries just a few feet away we got stuck into our lunch. Repleat we dropped down into a sleepy town Cathlamet and a campsite by the river in a mari a. Great spot. Pat,Michael  & I used a Yurt - warm, roomy and with electricity. J &M camped.
Yesterday we crossed the  and River via bridge and ferry into Oregon and continued along the south bank. Big long hills and lots of traffic but for the first time in a while we had s

unshine.What a difference it makes. Good views of the River

It Rains in Washington.....

We opted for an early start and just as we were straddling our bikes the lightening flashed and the thunder crashed - back inside for more coffee and a relax for over an hour. Thus at 9:30 we rolled out. We were heading for Toledo and possible camping. The roads were quiet and certainly before lunch, it was flat. Lunch in an State Park (cinaman roll for me - smoked salmon and humous for others) then we rode into town. No camping no motel just Betty's cafe. Due to the threat of more storms and rain we opted to head for Castle Rock  another 15 miles.  The ride to C R was great on the old road with all the traffic on the interstate. Through wooded landscape and farms. Undulating and wet . Gilly & Di are safely in Portland in a friends daughters flat.
Us 5 remaining plod on and we should be on the Columbia River tomorrow.
Dist 41 Odo389.

More smiles Part 2 ...

Yep the mechanic he wantef$15 to fit a new set of bar ends to Michaells bike (the old ones broke during one of his falls which I am glad to say are all in the past).He also wanted $15 just to see if the bike stand Jim wanted would fit - what a wally. The older bloke in the shop was great and gave us the route etc.
Fter coffee we started dropping down to Elma where we dnded up in  very smart R/V part with millions of bucks parked all around us. Some folk (not me) went to the ice cream evening and sguffed themselves with ice crem and toppings!

Today flat all the way. We have been following a valldy. This is the poor part of Washingtom State- junk piled high in theChehalis  Indin Reservation and very poor farm We chatted to a family who were selling there possessions from their farm as thet were selling up to move east. There family dairy farm was no longer viable.
We are in Centralia.Di & Gilly are booked onto the train to Portland tomorrow. Gilly goes back to UK to pay her respects to her brother and sill rejoin us in about a fortnight an Di departs for some golf nd will rejoin us
in California.


Dist todau 39 miles Odo 348 miles

Less hills more smiles part 1......

Less hills - in fact almost flat. Yestetdaywe had a bigclimb out  of Shelton onto a wooded plateax -much more wilderness than we have had. There clearly something not right about my bike - all over the road - initially I thoght flat tyre but no, then badly loaded panniers so I repacked bot no difference- then Pat saw a big wobble in my back wheel - yep slack spokes. Pat had this on his new whell in Norway - the spokes coming loose after about 100 miles. This was a new back wheel and I had related the spoke story to my bike shop.This would never happen on any wheel they built , they stressed it, glued it and done 100 other things to it - but it did happen. So Pat, Jim and I set, spoke spanners in hand and spoke tuners fingers pinging spokes - we had it sorted in no time except I now have a slight buckle. Jim checked his andhe had a slack spoke as well. Onwards and we found our lunch spot - a 100 year old tumbling down shop thing with no plumbing but good for coffee. Di struck up a dialogue with the lMichocal deadbeat - he was going to cycle to Chile and not only fancied Di's bike but I think he had an eye for her.

I then had a puncture - stone through the tyre as was the case for Pat's punctures.
What I had failed to mention was how good folk have been to us except the mechanic in Silverdale Cycle Shop.

Pedalling in the sun ...

Another great day. Mist in the morning until about 11 then sun, sun and sun.
We followed the coast of HoodCanal for 20 miles before we entered the Skokomish Reservation. The Reservations are able to have casinos to make money - we stoppd there for a bite to eat.  Jim & Marlene tried a bit of gambling - they put a quarter each into the machines! Pat had a rest day and he and Di followed our route in a bus. He has to drink lots of water and rehydrat stuff. Hopefully he will pedal with us tomorrow.
We are in Shelton Motel - no camping here but will be camping tomorrow.
Dist 32 miles Odo 282.

Much has happened......

Ithas been a while since I last penned anything. It is nearly a week since we crossed into the States. We pedalled in rain for the first couple of days and LMF was definately a factor within the group. On leaving Bellingham on a wet cold morning, an 8 oclock pedal out was planned -Gilly and Di disappeared to a Starbucks to get an early morning caffene fix, Michael disappeared into a garage to check tyre pressures yet again and I was sheltering in a bus shelter from the rain wating. I was then approached by a 'hobo' of no fixed abode and we then had a discussion of how good life on the road could be. However he did say that after a while it wore a bit thin and he was looking for accomodation.
On the road today we received news that Gilly brother died unexpectedly which will have an effect on the trip. Gilly has decided to fly home from Portland on 17th Sept  and rejoin us in Crescent City about 2 weeks later.
Last Friday we caught a ferry to the San Jaun Islands where we met up with Jim & MARLENE. GILLY & and I had our first days camping WEREAS THE OTHERS RELAXED IN A HOTEL. Great islands and the sun started to shine for the first time. A little less LMF - at last.
We have gradually chuncked south on some very busy roads and in ever increasing temperatures. We have camped in a couple of State Parks but today we are in a Motel.
Drama - it has been over 80 deg for the last 2 days and today Pat succumbed to the HEAT. 911 and 2 ambulances - Pats heart rate over 175and blood pressure almost non existant. A few hours in hospital and an arm full of saline solution and he is OK and he rejoined us for supper.
We are half way down Washington, the Odo is exactly 250 miles.
It seems to be going OK.Jim & Marlene seem a little faster than us but we all seem to getting on.Jim has endless stories about their travels and it is good to have an international group. Pat, who started with more gear than the rest of us seems to visit a Post Office in most town shedding kit, Michael visits most garages to check tyer pressures, Gilly just pedals on and I bring up the rear. 2 punctures so far - both to Pats back tyre so I have given him my spare tyre as he sent his home a couple of days ago savei

ng weight.
We pedal on tomorrow whilst Pat rests up for a day. We are expecting another hot day.

Underway

Hi Ho

On the road and it is good to feel the journey has begun
Yesterday was traffic, busses and lorries cars all within inches giving us very little room.
It was a shakedown day, sorting pannier weights and load distribution, getting the feel of a loadef bike. For some just staying on the bike was an.acheivment - one of us came off about 6 times - nothing dented apart from pride, a brokenbar end and some very scrapped legs.
Crossed a couple of big bridges and eventually crossed in the USA. No drama at the border. Into  motel and then a chinese and into bed. Everyone survived day 1 some in better humour than others and there was a slight hint of L M F in the air.
Today  rain. Lots of rain so in a motel in Bellingham. Less traffic and more trees.
Unfortunately we heard that Gilly's older brother died unexpectedly - so phone calls to & from UK
Dist 73 miles

Big Day Tomorrow

Hi Ho
We load up at dawn tomorrow and mosey out of town and probably not a day too soon. Our area of Vancouver is not the most celubrious. A couple of nights ago we could not get back to the hostel because there had been a weapon dischage. Yesterday afternoon the door was blocked by a colapsed drunk. There is a big rough sleeping culture, at supper 2 nights ago the table next to us on the patio were accosted by a hobo with a yellow stained beared and v bad teeth - the skinhead type with a red mohecan at another table lept the rails and had a right go at him and their verbal argument could be heard as they went down the street.
However we were shown round Victoria by Jim & Marlene - what a fabulous place to live. Last night we were royally entertained by some friends of Micheal in North Vancouver - lovely place so different from the City - salmon, beautiful pink lamb, organic chicken and vegs to die for washed down with a glass or 3 of vin rouge! !
We have cycled all over Vancouver in the rain and it is time to go. We head for the border and tomorrow night we should be sleeping in the USA. Jim & Marlene are heading down the islands by ferry and meet us in 3 days time on San Juan Islands near Seatle. The forcast e is OK  maybe some showers.