We Knocked The Bxxxard Off ....

Twas a cold  and windy morning and the Captain said "gather round lads let me tell you a story" - Twas not only a cold and windy morning twas driving rain and only just above feezing - but a man's got to do what a man's got to do and we did it!

We hit the road at about 1000 after a late breakfast and headed the 9 miles to the top of Lewis into a strong northerly and plenty of rain - full oilskins from the start. It was not flat and we made some hard yards but arrived at the Butt of Lewis in good heart, a little cold and definately wet. A kind lady got out of her car and offered to take a pic - otherewise it would have been a selfie. It is the windiest place in the Hebredies and a wild coast. The lighthouse is impressive - yet another built by Stevenson.

We headed east for a couple of miles to the Port of Ness, a small interesting fishing village with a maze of harbour walls to give protection to the small fishing boats. We lunched in a great little cafe overlooking the harbour and sands. There were a small pod of minke whales in the bay surfacing every so often and causing excitment to the folk in the cafe. We headed back to whence we came with the wind behind.

This morning was a 0630 pedal out - bad weather predicted with increasing winds from the south by mid morning and rain after lunch. The 20 miles to Stornoway took us just over 2 hours and we checked into our hostel, dropped our bags and tucked into a full Scotish B'fast at 1000 - boy was i hungry.. Twas then off for our final cyle quest - a monument to Bonnie Prince Charlie south of town - what it did not say was that it was a hilly ride - tested my already tiresd legs.

We are now back in our hostel - the wind is howling, the rain pelting down and we are relaxing. Sightseeing tomorrow then ferry back to the mainland and to Aberdeen then homeward bound on Friday.

It has been a challenging tril, some big hills, particularly in Shetland and some fierce weather but as our old school motto says 'Quit Ye Like Men, Be Strong' - we have certainly lived up to that!

The Odo for the trip is 435 miles - it may not be as high as other routes we have travelled but I feel I have pedalled every inch. I have enjoyed Pat's company and it has been a good trip.

                    The Rusty Sign at the end

                          Wet - Wet - Wet

The end is in view ...

We are in a B&B within spitting distance of the end, from the garden of our abode at South Galson we can see the Butt of Lewis Lighthouse.

Maggie, our landlady last night, is 6th generation on the property which the family aquired after the land clearances and under the 'Crofting Act'. This gave the people the right to some  land. Most land was for deer hunting and bird shooting leaving the poorer land available to the people. A 'Croft' normally has a strip of land and in Maggie's case is about 9 acres stretching down hill into the peat and heather moor below the house. In some areas you can see the strips running down from the houses. However last evening when Pat asked about the 'crofting' Maggie, who is a Gaelic speaker and local guide went on in great detail and I am afraid my eyes glazed over. Interestingly40% of people in the Outer Hebrides are Gaelic speakers and do not learn English until they go to school.

A stiff southerly blew us along all day, some light rain came and went throughout the day. We knew that everything would be closed as the northern part of the Outer Hebredies is solid proestant and serious prespeterian. As we passed the churches this morning the car parks were full! We did find a hotel open for coffee this morning and our Harrow teacher coaght up with us and discussed the defence of the realm and other weighty topics. We had lunch in a Sheilling (spelt many ways) - a basic crofters shelter which was common until the mid 1900's. We visited the Callanish Stone - the Hebrides answer to Stone Henge but really did not cut the mustard - we have better stone on Dartmoor but just don't mention them.

Our plan is to cycle to the lighthouse with unladen bikes and return here tomorrow. Unfortunateely there is no room in the B&B so we will be slumming it  in the Hostel attached. We then plan to cycle to Stornoway for a couple of nights before catching the ferry to Ullapool. Distance today 35mls.

                        Stones of Callanish

                          Morning coffee

                           Sheiling - lunch

                  Not a log pile but a peat pile!

Blue Skies in Lewis

A pleasand day in the sunshine and light winds. Lewis is less dramatic then Harris, gentler rolling ground with peat, moorland prvailing. Small villages every few miles and just 1 shop all day.

We had coffe in a school which closed a few years ago and is now the local Historical Society and a tearoom. Speaking to the lad who served us he was just 1 of two pupils in his class at the school.

Just as we were leaving a group of cyclists went passed. Unloaded but not too quick. Pat realised that an overtake was on - he speeded off up the hill after them and out of sight. I stopped to speak to a local farmer and by the time i caught up with Pat he had done the dirty deed. A moral overtake - he took thew 2w slow guys at the back just before they regrouped with the main pack at the top of a hill. Not bad on a laden bike. This group was cycling to the Butt of Lewis from Tarbert -/ we are taking 3 days for that distance..

We are in a B&B in the middle of Lewis, probably the only village not by the coast. Another cyclist is staying - much qicker than us - he has just left Harrow School after 302 years as an Art Teacher. This is the first September in his life that he doesa not have to be anywhere. He has not reached retirement age and is going to set up a studio and try and make his living as a artist. Interesting.

We had our first major mechanical  problem, the bearing in Pat's pedal seized. Taxi into Stornoway to get new pedalls - fixed.

We did 25 miles today. Bigger day tomorrow and forecast is for southerly winds.

Big Hills to Lewis....

Hostel life can be interesting with a mix of folk thrown together in smal rooms. In our hostel there was a mens dorm, a ladies dorm and a mixed couples dorm. Our fellow bed partners was an older walker who went to bed early and snored and grunted all night and a youngish American lad who totally ignored me but spoke to other Yankeedoodles who were statying. One bubbly lady in the morning said that one of the ladies was a real pain in the arxx and she wished she had left yesterday. She loved wild camping and sea swimming and went to Orkney in February and swam every day - each to their own I guess.

Today was big hill day - biggest climb of the trip into the mountains of Harris. The forecast was OK, rain to start but more strong westerlies. Our first few miles were into it and then it was behind us into the mountains.

We only had 15 miles planned for today to Scaladale Outdoor Centre - we are the only people staying and there are no staff. It is also miles away from civilisation thus we stocked up on food  for the next few meals. We stopped pretty soon at a glass and craft centre. Interesting place, recently set up by a couple who gradualy moved north over the last 20 years. She born in Cornwall moved north, met her husband and set up shop in Newcastle and then came out here to Harris. There shop and workshop is by the loch and a fabulous place to be - and while we had coffee a stream of visitors can, bought stuff and left. They said that once over the hills there was a 'van fish cafe thingy' in a layby - not to be missed.

The hill was long and steep and we walked the last hundred yards of the steep bit as having stopped it was too steep to get going. The cars were fast but gave us plenty of room and the lorries threw up vast amounts of spray. We made a fast decent into a blustery wind and stumbled across our hostel. As we thought - all to ourselves, drying room with washing machine, big kitchen and good showers - all good. The 'Fish Cafe was still a mile or so away so we unloaded and rode there for a late lunch. Great fish and 'cake'  The lads from our hostel 2 nights ago stopped and we met 2 other lots of touring cyclists.

The rumour is that the weather is better tomorrow - sunshine ans not much wind - hurrah! . Distance today 15mls.

                      Our hostel in Tarbert

                        Rainbow and wind

                                Big hill

Our fish cafe - note the lowered tent - too much wind

A Jaunt up Harris ......

Twas a good decision to stay in Leverburgh overnight - the hostel was different with a jaunty style run by a guy who was proud of the fact he was kicked out of Sandhurst. I believe in those day homosexuallity was illegal in the services and this could have been the reason. However he ran a great hostel. We shared a 6 berth room with an older  dutch couple who had electric bike - this will be the future for us I am sure!

0730 Pat and I rode out to find St Clements Church and our next cycle quest.

We took the wrong road - we cyycled 3 miles with a westerly gale behind us and the only way to get to the church was via a 1 mile muddy track. No way - the cycle back to the hostel was hard - the internet is a wonderful thing and gave us the answer to the quest - yeah!

There were a group of about 7 lads - I say lads, they were about 30ish on a cycling thingy with vehicle support. They were hoping to get out to St Kilda but the boats were all cancelled. They were humming and haaring about what to do, I senced a reluctance to get out into the westerly 20 knot wind. We hardened guys had no such reluctance and headed off initially to the west into it and then gradually went north and eventually eat across the centre of Harris.

We stopped at a visitor centre and learnt about the geology and geaneology of the Islands - fascinating, Pat has mentioned all about it in his blog.  This is a stunning coast, languid white sand beaches and rugged headlands and islets. We stopped on a windy headland for lunch - we were interupted by the 7 lads who had braved the elements to cycle around Harris - good on them. Just as we were setting off Richy, my son, rang to say they are catching tonights ferry across to the Islands - 40 knots predicted - I hope he has a sick bag close to hand. Unfortunately we are too far north now to meet up but I believe he and a mate are kite suffing and kayaking - good luck wiith that although it looks as though the weather is slowly improving.

The sun came out a little, no rain and mainly a following wind - no rain gear on for the first time in a week. We had a good breeze pushing us up the biggest hill so far this trip, We then cruised down into Tarbet where we are in a backpackers hostel. We have been impressed with the standard of hostels, all provide duvets etc. coffee, tea and some cereals and bread - about 20 to 25 per night.

We popped into the Post Office and despatched out tents home - we are not going to camp as the accommodaion is good and we have booked up until we leave. Anything to lighten our bikes as we are in the mountains tomorrow with a big hill day! Our distance today was just over 26 miles and our odo stands at 303mls.

              Our Hostel in Leverburgh Harris

                          A windy lunch spot

      Tis I - just to prove I am on this trip!

Force 10 to Harris...

After a stormy night in our Pod, Pat's alarm awoke us at 0530. Rain was pelting our walls and the wind, from the SW was blowing a hoolie. Dawn had not yet broken and our plan to catch the 1030 ferry across to Harris was looking decidedly doddgy. As it got lighter the rain eased and at 0700 we rolled out (about 1 hour later than planned) to tackle the 22 miles to the ferry at Berneray. The wind was due to back around to the north and increase to 40mph about 1000. We were soaked within 5 minutes of starting and getting blown all over the road. However the rain eased and we gradually started to head north - we started to make good progress. 5 miles from the ferry - bang - the wind hit us with a vengence - 40 mph on the nose. Single track road with cars trying to get to the ferry pushing past, severe bufetting from the gale pushing us back up the hills - stuff of nightmares for a cyclist. However when the going gets tough - yep you got it - the tough get going. We made some hard yards and got to the ferry with 10 minuets to spare.

The passage between the islands to Harris is dangerous waters with rocky shallows and narrow passages. Interesting in the high winds but the ferry arrived in good order. We had already decided to call it a day and had booked a hostel just by the ferry terminal.

We deserved a good lunch thus a a couple of pints and some fish and chips hit the spot. The forecast for tomorrow is not the best, slacker winds but from the NW, it will means head winds for the first 10 miles or so before we head east across the Island.

We have booked accommodation for the next few days - it will be much more hiily and thus we will have shorter days. We arestill on track to complete the route.

              Our Pod in the evening sunshine

                        View from the Pod

                      Harris here we come

                        We have landed

Oilskins donned to North Uist.....

0530 alarm and a pre dawn departure to catch the first ferry to Eriskay. A fast 4 miles to the teminal and met up with 20 other cyclists who had been stranded yeterday. Weather was considerably eased and a smooth 50 minute crossing  - the Jordies, who were on a mission, set off never to be seen again wanting to catch the 1130 ferry to Berneray 60 miles away,. The remainder were left wallowing in their dust and us oldies brought up the rear. We stopped for bacon butties at the first cafe only to see that no other cyclist had stopped - they must all be on a mission.

These southern islands are flat on the coast and hilly in the middle - our route follows the coast. Unfortunately it was not long until the weather closed in - full wet weather gear but with a following wind. The roads are single track with passing places and some of the locals ignor these wider bits and squeeze past you pasing too close and too fast. Mind you some cyclists are not too considerate - we had stopped to allow a car to proceed towards us only to be overtaken by a lady cyclist who just said Hi as she passed and held up the car

We had 2 cycle quest things, the first was Flora Macdonald to whom there is a monument, she helped Bonnie Prince Charlie escape to Skye, he landed from France at the beach by the ferry landing on Eriskay. The second was a grand war memorial in the middle of Benbecular where the rain stopped and we had lunch.

40 miles is about right for us so we booked a pod on South Uist and the rain returned about 15 minutes before we got there and soaked us. We are by the sea and if the rain stops and we could see out I am sure it would be a terrific view across the small iselets we crossed on our way here. There are a couple of other of our cohort of cyclist who arrived just after us. We have heard on the grapevine that some have given up and headed for Skye as the forcaste for tomorrow is not good at all. We will probably make a pre dawn start and dash for the ferry 22 miles away before the 40 knots northerly wind hits us.

We are in pretty good shape - 'tis just a shame about the weather. Distance 42.5 mls. Our Odo to date reads 259mls.

Ferry Eriskay and Bonnie Prince Charles beach

              Flora Macdonald's Memorial

                            War Memorial

Stormbound in Barra...

Oban was a vibrant, colourful fishing and ferry port. Lots going on and friendly. We caught our ferry to Castlebay on Barra, at the southern end of the Outer Hebrides, early afternoon and arrived after an OK crossing just after 6pm. We dumped our bags at our hostel and rode the 5 miles south onto Vatersay and the start of the Hebridean Way. The forecast was for rain to come in, we ate our lunchtime sandwiches (having eaten on the ferry) and started back at dusk. There were about 12 to 15 other cyclists all doing the same thing. A couple of Geordie lads bombed down there, they were on their way back when we met them "someone has nicked the sign and we went miles past the start' they said - us, more sedate travellers, stopped at the sign. These lads are planning to cycle the route in less than 3 days - they will see nothing! We got back just as the rain was starting in the dark. We shared a double bunked room with a couple of ladies who seemed to tolerate a couple of old fuddy duddies in the bunks opposite.

Today we set off to catch the 0930 ferry from Barra to Eriskay - driving wind and rain but warmish maybe 15degC. With 40 knots of wind assisting we made good time to the ferry only to find it was cancelled with a review at 1400 with a possibility of a 1600 ferry. Not much use to us as we would end up over the ferry but with no lodgings there as we are a bit reluctant to errect tents in these conditions. The lady in the cafe at the terminal gave out the number of the Comunity Shop in Castlebay and they do a 'booking service' for stranded folk for a fiver. Pat gave them a ring and we are safely ensconced in a fab holiday/hostel thingy. Better then last night and a twin room not a comunal bunkroom.

Our distance so far on the route is 25.6mls. We have had a couple of hills but nothing we could not manage. (on was a 1:11 - we spit on such measly slope now!!)

We have just heard that all ferries have been cancelled and on yellow alert for tomorrow ( those folk who were hanging on will now be stuck for accommodation - glad we made our decision early. Yeah! The Geordie lads were going to cycle back to the hostel in Castelbay - 14 miles into a 40knot wind - good luck to them!

Harbour Castlebay

                      Start of Hebridean Way

Full Oilskins Weather

                    Cyclists waiting for the ferry

             Otters thingy at ferry terminal

        Beach Runway - only one in the world which has scheduled flights

Hebrides 'ere we come ..

Our hosts, Rosemary and Nick were great. They have moved 'up north' from Chichester in a fab place within a stones throw from the sea (and of of Churchill's Barriers) into what appears to be a lively community - lots going on, music, arts, choirs etc. What a change from the fast life or Sussex.

We headed north in continuous rain but with a following wind. Scappa Flow was obscured with low cloud and rain but as we cruised into Kirkwall a couple of hours later the rain eased and the sun poked through. We went back to our campsite and pleaded with the warden to allow us to use the sitting and kitchen area to dry, reluctantly she agreed.

We have met some weird folk in the Islands and none so weird as a lady who had been at the site for a few weeks and was traveling back south on the same ferry as us. She could not stop talking, she broke into everyones conversation, she had done everything, had a better idea then you, and just went on and on. My brain had only just recovered from the battering in Westray 'please give it a rest'!

Ferry to Aberdeen - all good. Norman met us at the station in Aberdeen as Pat had dropped our train tickets at there house when we stayed on the first night. At the same time Pat handed over a large bag of unwanted kit he had been lugging around - a trip with Pat would not be the same without the gradual dispersal of hius stuff back home. Off for coffee and who should sit next to us at Costa - yep our lady friend from the campsite - luckily my back was to her so Pat got embroild - it was a relif when we had to get our train!

Out train journey was OK til Glasgow.
 It seemed we only had 1 bike booked onto the Oban train - cock-up at London - Terry, the train guy said he gets it all the time. 6 bikes on the train and no room for more. We had suspected that we were a place short but Terry blamed his co-workers so we left it at that. It transpired that 1 bike did not turn up so we were on. The stowage was tight and the Guard blamed our friend Terry for not stowing them properly, we re-stowed 4 times and eventually the Guard was happy.

We are in Oban at a B&B and catch the ferry to Castlebay this afternoon. Hostel tonight then the Hebridean Way starts tomorrow. Weather does not look too bright.

Kirkwall in the evening sun

after a pint in the oldest pub in Oban

Lerwick to Orkney - Hoy, Westray etc.

We cycled back to Lerwick and stayed in a fantastic hostel in the middle of the city. In the morning we took a Bird and Seal boat trip and went round Noss - thousands of Ganets and we were under the cliffs - a fantastic trip. Interesting to see the Skewers chasing the Ganets to regurgitate their fish.  Seals on the back of the boat, our guide throwing mackrel beside our boat and the Ganets diving 2 feet from us. A great trip - well worth the money.

Just before catching the ferry from Lerwick we met the 'Pie Family' and the first thing Mrs Pie said was 'there's a great Fish n Chippy just round the corner'. Mmmm. Our man from the campsite who had been there for 65 days was on the ferry with all his worldly goods in a rucksack 'too much kit' he said 'I must downsize'. I thought I was minimalstic but I am not sure I can match him.

Orkney is a less harsh environment and less spread community then Shetland however regetable the weather has not much improved. On Tuesday morning we set off early to catch the 1000 ferry to Hoy. A hilly but pleasant ride and we met up with the enthusiastic Jude from the Scappa Flow Museum who escorted us on a 2 hour walking tour of the Naval Base used during the wars. Lyness was the home to 12000 sailors and many more army folk looking after the Fleet. Pat's grandfather was CinC Orkney and Shetland during the war and would have had alot to do with them. We headed north to cycle to the northern ferry and stopped off at Emily's Tea Rooms - just as we were going in a couple of cyclists were passing - she shouted 'tea and cake' he said 'we have no time we need to catch the ferry and get a cuppa there'. She said'for fxxxs sake' and a domestic started. We did not interfer but we knew there was no cafe at the terminal. On Wednesday on Westray - one of the northern islands we met them again and had a good laugh over their domestic. It transpired that they were teachers and asked us lots of questions about cycling, as they were relatively new to touring but - they were facinated about Pat's african heritage and knowledge, then about our many tours and then about my Himalayan stuff. They left us in awe thinking they had a boring life.

We left Hoy over to Stromness (great little town) and got back to Kirkwall and our little lodge late evening. Wednesday we caught the ferry to Westray, an lovely Island, 600 souls, salmon farming, crab processing and sheep farming. We stopped for coffee near the ferry, run by a mancunian guy, now married to a local. He was called away as most folk have a number of jobs and he was a fireman. Enter his wife - boy she could talk for Orkney - she made my brain hurt, I said to Pat 'we should go' he said ' the ferry is not due for an hour'. The wife started on oil heating then air to air heating, then air to ground heating, then ground to ground heating - my eyes glazed over and lost the will to live. "time to stretch my legs' I said to Pat - he agreed - yeah - we escaped.

Today we have cycled south onto Ronaldsay to Pat's friens Rosemary and Nick. We came over the Churchill Barriers constructed to protect the Fleet from submarine attack - to lat for HMS Roay Oak which is now a war grave on the seabed of Scappa Flow. We stopped at the Italian Chapple where there was anotherc clue on our cycle quest. After cycling into 25 knots of southerly wind all day it was great to get to Rosemary's and Nicks. We are now showered and our clothes are churning away in the washing machine and a glass of red in by my keyboard. Life all of a sudden is very pleasant.

We are back to Kirkwall tomorrow and a ferry to Aberdeen. All is well.

Scalps Flow

Historical walking tour of Lyness - Scappa Flow

                                   Ganets

         Betty's Grave on a remote hillside

                        Our lodge in Kirkwall

                              Italian Chaple

                            Churchill Barrier

Lerwick in some sun .....

There were some interesting characters in the campsite last night. Firstly there was the Pie Family "Robinson" - Mrs probably 20 stone, Mr well into the uper 20's, 2 teenagers on the very large scale and a 10 year old who's future I can predict! Apparently they like walking but I guess reward themselves with Fish 'n Chips at the end. There was a guy who had been at the site for 65 days - he was a mental nurse but gave it up after 25 years 5 years ago and has been travelling ever since. All round Europe, South America and lives in a tent. Very old lifestyle - no car and is thinking of settling in Shetland - he has seen a house described as unihabitable but has a roof and walls for Pounds 10,000. I wish him luck.

We left at about 0930 in the mist after a drizzly sort of night, packed up wet tents yet again but had breakfast in the comunal room (with cooker and washing machines) listening to the travels of the 'Pie Family'. 18 miles into Lerwickover 3 or 4 large hills but the gratient easing as we approached the city. For the first time we cycled in the sunshine withpout windproof or waterproofs.

We are in a hostel in the middle of Lerwick - an old secondary school which closed 40 years ago but is suprisingly good nick. We have a 4 berth room which has all our gear out drying.

Tomorrow morning we have booked onto a Seabird and wild life tour on a boat for 3 hours. We then catch the evening ferry to Orkney arriving about 2300.