Nous sommes ici or we is 'ere..............

We are in Sete, the end of the road, the completion of our journey. We phaffed around Agde for an hour this morning, first trying to find the velo route to the Cape which we failed miserably, then at the Tourismo asking where the end of the canal is - no one knows!! Asking about a cycle route to Sete as there is only a major road across a 25km causeway - you must be joking was all the Tourismo lady could say. We just followed the road signs and there was a fantastic velo route alongside the Mediterranean. We  had a very strong NW wind which helped as oppossed to hindered our progress and we arrived in Sete at lunchtime. Dist 29.22 km. Our final Odo reading 1489.4 km or 931 miles. We cycled on 27 days including to Mont Michelle so averaged about 55km or 35 miles per day - not too bad for 3 geriatrics. We did 12 days on the original route and 15 days on the revised route. We just about got from the Atlantic to the Med on velo routes - we really need to do better in UK.
So that is it for this trip, Gilly and I were in Sete 44 years ago and Gilly is having fun trying to find our hotel and the police station in which she spent the night - but that is story for another time. Gilly and I have enjoyed the journey, the weather has been generally kind, the roads good and the locals very helpful. We hire a car on Monday and make our way to St Malo for our ferry on 30th.

TTFN.

The Wind is King.............

A few miles have gone under our wheels in the last few days - some hard yards and some good miles - the wind gods have not been entirely on our side.

We are in Agde just 30km short of Sete and the end of the Canal du Midi. It is also apparently the nudist capital of Europe. I discussed a bit of nude cycling with Gilly but she has not got any doublesided bra tape (see previous blog) - she now says she has but I've checked, she does not have nearly enough!!!!!!!!

We stayed in the same hotel in Toulouse as last time we cycled through - Hotel Victor Hugo but I was disappointed that we did not get a discount as regulars and I realy don't think they remembered us from 3 years ago. I like Toulouse, it is a vibrant fun city with many friendly folk willing to help lost cyclists.
We followed the canal out of the city during rush hour, we were late starting as John, who was in a hotel just round the corner,could not get his breakfast as firstly the staff did not turn up and then the bread man did not cometh - so eventually we departed about 0900 - half an hour late. There were cyclists everywhere all pedalling at 100mph coming from all directions - in many ways worse then cycling in traffic - at least you can see and hear cars approaching!
We rocked into Castelnaundry after coming off the towpath about 13 km from town. The tow path deterriated into a narrow, rucked grassy track - not good with laden bikes. We were battling into an easterly all day and once we were clear of the tow path it hit us hard. We huffed and puffed up hill for nearly 7 km before dropping down towards town. Hard man!!
Last time we cycled through I put in the blog that Castelnaudry was a dump - nothing has changed. Dist 62.22 Odo 1297.3
Wednesday we stayed clear of the tow path and struggled against a strong easterly - what should have been a gentle short day tested our resolve - there was a hint of LMF in the air and comments such as "what are we going to do tomorrow if the wind does not change?" Were being banded around. So we  slunk into Carcasonne, grabbed a coffee and licked our wounds. Gilly booked our hotel near the castel and John said I will lead us to our hotel with my magic garmin thingy! Our fearless leader took us higher and higher up the side of the castle road, a road too narrow for the impatient French drivers to pass until eventually we were looking down onto our hotel way below. LMF was definately active in the troops following our leader.
We had a great meal inside the castel and our spirits were high as the wind was going to shift to the west and blow us along the following day.
Carcassonne Dist 41.28 Odo 1338.6

Thursday was a great day, cross country to Narbonne, through small villages, virtually no traffic and yes, a strong following wind. Fantastic.
Narbonne Dist 61.79 Odo 1400.4
We met up with some old friends who have an appartment about 40km south of Narbonne, we stayed in the appartment last time we cycled this way. Had a great meal in a restaurant which boasted fresh food and  individually cooked. It was but it took nearly 3 hours.

Today should have been a good day but it was very ordinary. Too much traffic, hard navigation in places but we did pick up the canal for a few miles were it had a metalled surface. We looked lost in one town and Frenchie came across and asked if could help - he was very confused as I read the wrong town off the map. He was just like me  - the less I understood what he was saying the louder he said it!!!
So here we are, Agde, we have not got our kit off yet but Gilly would like to go the Cape Agde tomorrow before we go mmmmmmm....
We will seek out the end/beginning of the canal before our last days cycling to Sete.
Dist 59.83km Odo 1460.2. Good weather with the wind mainly on our backs.

Fawlty Towers has arrived in France..........

Hi Ho, We had a good rest day in Agen on Friday and then an enforced one with thunder storms and torrential rain on Saturday. There are worse places to rest. We had lunch with some friends on Friday - they live in Condom - Stop I can hear you giggling already - but Condom is a great place. On Sunday we moved on to Castelsarrasin Dist 52.84km Odo 1171.1. It was humid day but a good cycle along the towpath. The hotel was something very different. An ancient place with rooms around a central open tower thingy, probably a couple of centuries old with funiture to match. We were greeted by the Grandad and I though Oh. What have we booked. The procedure was taken over by the granddaughter and she was delightful - quite clearly schooled by John Cleese out of Fawlty Towers, an engraciating bow with almost every word, walking out of the room backwards with a flurish of the hand and very slow and precise English. I believe the other 2 had a good night but I heard the chimes of the town clock every quater of an hour all through the night.

Today we headed for Toulouse - the side of the canal is adorned with 200 year old plane trees which have unfortunately been aflicted with an untreatable fungus. The canal authorities are in the process of felling the infected trees - 11,000 down 40,000 to go. Sad. 10 days ago there was a storm (we were in Confolens) and along the tow path many of the infected trees had been blown over or had branches off. They are replanting with plane trees grafted onto resistant root stock. It will take 200 years to grow back!!!!!
 We stopped after about 20km for coffee just as the bar/restaurant lit the first fire of the year - blocked chinmey - we sat there as the place filled with smoke, it got lower and lower and eventually we were sitting in smoke, the fire place was black and the staff were all coughing - we thought it very amusing and they were very embarrassed.

Gilly was talking to our lunch friends about an incident with doublesidded bra tape - apparently this keeps bra straps in place and it occurred to me that our naked cyclist probably used this to keep his willy straight along his saddle, although thinking about it now as it was straight perhaps he did not need the tape after all.

Toulouse Dist 63.93 Odo 1235.1

We have seen many fields of sun flowers but it is well passed their flowering and they all look sad and forlorn in the fields waiting to be harvested. Very sad indeed and it brings a little tear to the eye.

We will probably end in Sete where the canal meets the sea, this gives us about 5 more days of cycling before we thow our bikes in the sea.

Naked cyclist and other stuff?...........

We are in Agen - good cycle along the dedicated cycle path. The path is in good repair with some damage from tree roots. About 10k out of Agen we were stopped watching some boats negociate some locks. A couple of touring cyclists passed between us with out a word. We always speak. I thought this rude. We set off and in the distance ahead of us we could see the offending couple - an older man, maybe our age and a younger lass cycling in a very short skirt mmmmmm!!!!!!!! I was third in line with John pace setting, the targets were getting closer, suddenly Gilly got the scent and off she went with John hot on her heels. I was left eating their dust and bingo - a loaded bike overtake, however the non speaking guy took umbridge and sped up onto John's back wheel with non speaking dolly bird struggling to keep up. I was gradually catching the bottom in the skirt on the bike ahead. An overtake is not an overtake unless you can hold it for at least 1km and then just as I was about to take the bottom in the skirt the dynamic duo slowed and stopped and the non speaking duo  disappeared down the track.

Agen Dist 65.74km Odo 1118.3km

On our way across the Mois - Bazas cycle track we crossed paths with a male naked cyclist.  None of us had seen one before. We  had just stopped for lunch at a join in tracks and there he was. A smooth skinned, browned body sitting on his stead. I was surprised but due to positioning I was the only one who got a shufty at the business end. I was questioned heavily by Gilly and I explained that his willy was gently laying along his szddle and dipping just over the front, the dangly bits were just resting where you would expect. He was sitting in an up right position otherwise everything would squashed as I can verify. Thinking about it as he must have had a short saddle otherwise he would not of dangled over the front, I of course have a long saddle!!!!!!

on our enforced rest day in Royan due to a non exsistant strike we were entertained by an International Trathalon. There were some very fit folk around. The last person to complete did it in just shy of 8 hours. I have 2 children who are triathaletes and finish just over the 6 hours so they would have done well.

A lycra clad over taker & 1000km...........

It's been a good few days with the kilometres rolling away under our wheels - we are pedalling well in good weather, on dedicated cycle tracks though flat country. A pleasure.

We left Royan by the early ferry (0750) and headed south on a dedicated cycle route. I cycled this route 10 years ago on my way to Gibraltar and remembered it well - forested dune area gives you shade from the midday sun. We were heading for Lacanou Ocean, a holiday village on the ocean. On the way we passed through a number of small villages by the beach obviously frequented by folk from Bordeaux. Then it happened - a first for Gilly and I - a lycra clad cyclist on a high spec road bike entered our road ahead of us. Initially I paid no attention but I suddenly realised that I was gaining - I thought we could do this - I increased speed and came up behind him, he had seen us when he turned onto our road and presumable dismissed us as no threat. It came as a shock to him as I said' pardon mesuire, je passe sil vous plat' he eased over, I said YES to my self as Gilly eased past as well. I pedalled quite hard as we were on a slight uphill incline. The lycra clad was not amussed, he was on Gilly's tail trying to pass, Gilly being quicker than me up hills passed me and I pulled over so that lycra clad could not pass. He was breathing down my neck but he could not pass as we were on a cycle path with raised edges. We held him off for more than a kilometre and this makes it a genuine take out. Unfortunately John did not get passed but for while it was great fun for us Brits!!!
Lacanau Ocean Dist 81.16km.

We found a cycle map which showed a cycle path crossing the great expanse of nothingness to the south of Bordeaux so we continued south to the Arcachon Basin. This was more cycling on dedicated cycle path though forest. There are more cycle tourists on this route and it is interesting to exchange stories - mainly Fench and German. I always lie when the Germans ask me how far as they put us to shame but with the French we can hold our own!!.
We arrived in Biganos on the SE  of the Acachon Basin in good form. Dist 63.82.

Then on Tuesday we set off on the Mois - Bazas cycle route heading east, south of Bordeaux. I guess Beeching had been out here as there are many disused railway lines, the one to Bazas was one such disued railway but has been beautifully restored as a 100km cycle path. We have much to learn from the French. A socialist country which does much for the average Joe  and families- each town has a play park, and there are cyclepistes everywhere. We could do better in England!!!
After 60 odd kms we looked for accommodation which we found in Villandraut. No hotels but a Chambre D'Hotes - probably out of 19th century - lovely old couple who spoke no English but Gilly did well, the walls were crumbling, the electrics were a bit frightening, the plumbing left a lot to be desired but the breakfast was great. We went out for supper to the recommended resaurant to be greeted by a youngish lass who appeared to lack a sence of humour. It possibly did not help as we had consumed  couple of bottles of very drinkable vin rose at a takeawy pizza place from plastic tumblers before we arrived. Despite a lack of welcome and smiley service the food was great.
Villandraut Dist 62.63.

Today the weather has held - wall to wall sunshibe about 25°C and very little wind. Another 15 km on the cycleway to Bazas and then Velo Vert to Castets en Dothe where the Canal du Gironne starts. I really cannot get over it, we have been on a cycle path since Royan - almost 300 km and we will be on one to way past Toulouse - Cameron get your diget from within you rectum and sort it out!!!!!!!
We are in Marmande, just off the cycleway to the north of the Gironne. Dist 65.78.
BUT LOOK AT THE  ODO 1052.6 - we are official members of the 1000km club.

Great to smell the sea air ......

We have made it to Royan in good time. The terrain has got easier the closer to the coast we have travelled, the hills are shallower and the weather has been great for cycling - about 22°C and a gentle northerly breeze.

We arrived in Mansle, our friends pad to meet up with the 'barrel club' to find them still standing and able to talk. They had 2 barrels which were for later in the week, they needed to settle but John's (mine host) wine flowed freely in the evening followed by cognac. The cook , Brian did us proud with duck and all the timmings and we had a great time. It was Cognac that we were heading for next day.
Mansle Dist. 49.97km

The journey to Cognac was good apart from me nearly ending it all. It was not until the end of the day at the hotel that I realised what had happened. The manhole covers on the road were slighty depressed so that if you cycled over them the bike jolted - just like going over a pothole. It was on a sweeping left hand bend on a down hill section when I went over a manhole cover (you could say bad bike handling) there was a big crunch, my back wheel bounced and slid and I yelled as I thought I was going to take a tumble but it all setteled down and on I went. My bike felt fine,  no buckles, I looked down and around and all looked good. I had not seen any debris on the road so did not know what had happened. I was at the back of the group so pedalled on the catch up. At the hotel I was taking my water bottles off and there were only  2 and I normally carry 3. My bottom bottle had dissappeared - I guess it  jumped out and my back wheel went over it - being an alloy bottle it made a big crunching noice when I did this. Lucky I stayed on my bike.
Cognac was a busy town and it looks like it is dominated by Martell - 300 anniversary this year.
Cognac Dist  55.09km

Yesterday we could smell the salt on the breeze - sea gulls in the fields - and an almost flat coast plain lay ahead. We took the main road from Cognac as it was realy the only way to go. It was fine. On these trip there are certain highlites and one happened just as we were entering Royan. I do not mind being overtaken by joggers when I am labouring up hill in my 'granny' gear however I get a bit miffed when I am overtaken by walkers and this has happened on this trip but I was going to keep stum about it. But it is very rare that I overtake another cyclist but today it happened. It has only taken us just over 700km to achieve this - possibly a record as it is normally over a 1000. It was a genuine overtake , the lady was younger than us, her bike was not sqweaking and appeared in good repair and we swept past easily. Not only that but a few minutes later on the cycle path into Royan, two more -wow - 3 in one day. Fantasmagorical!!!!!!!
So here we are in Royan on the enterance to the Gironde on the north bank. Dist 66.29km and the odo reads779km.

I guess this is really the start to the new route - Atlantic to the Med across France. Some of us thought a swim in the Atlantic  would be a great start (that's me) others thought just a paddle would do (that's Gilly ) the remainder thought just thinking about might be ok. It is a different type of route so we have left our camping stuff with the 'barrel men' and hope that through their alcoholic haze they remember it and it eventually arrives back in UK. We will be credit card touring from now on staying in hotels etc.. Weather is set fair for the next 5 days so we plan to catch the 0750 ferry tomorrow morning across the Gironde.

A new route & new challenge..........

We are still here in Confolens having survived the biggest thunder storm in the world last night. Glad we were in a hotel - the storm seemed to circle us for about 4 hours and it seemed a thunder bolt just missed the hotel. This morning the damage to Toulouse was all over the TV. We have not 1 but 2 weather girls back near Woking reporting in on a daily basis on the future weather - boy did they get it wrong - I certainly would not like to have been camping last night. I keep telling John to give them a "buck-up" but he very defensive and maybe a little afraid - he says they are doing the best they can mmmmmm!!!!!!!!

We had a review of where we are at and where we are going. We have completed well over  third of the journey, just over 600km and looking at the book the easiest section. The terrain gets more hilly as the journey progresses and we have the Central Massive to cycle over. Is this too much of a challenge? Are we fit enough and are we made of stern enough stuff to keep a PMA when it really starts to get tough? We discussed this over a caraffe or 2 or Loire Rose, and we decided that we were weak and feeble and that today we would look for our adventure elsewhere.

In a small village about 45km away in Mansle, some old friends of ours have an old farmhouse thingy which they have renovated and a quick phone call revealed that yes someone will be there tomorrow. Some guys from the 'Barrel Club', so named because they all used to congregate once a month and stand around a barrel in someone's  kitchen and drink until it was empty or they had all fallen over. Every so often they come to France and do the same thing and that's tomorrow night. We will be there.

We  have decided to head for the west coast, we should hit it in about 3 days at Royan on the north bank of the Gironde at it's entrance. We will then mosey into Bordeau and pick up the Canal du Gironde and then the Canal du Midi and flow effortlessly across the middle of France to the Mediterrainean. This route will be less challenging terrain wise but just as much fun wine wise!! Gilly & I have done some of this route a couple of years ago but are quite happy to re-visit. This will also cut  few hundred kilometres off our total. It will mean we will have crossed France by velo - yippee!

We are going to keep the camping stuff, cut down on our daily mileage, drink more wine and take time to run bare foot through the wet meadows in the mornings - or someting like that!!!!  Some maps are on the way home and some new ones have been added so at 0800 tomorrow morning we shall be pedalling out on a new adventure.

P.S. We saw 'Mister Big' in the bar this lunchtime - black shirt, black jacket, black tousers and white shoes with a 'moll' on his arm. He had a bullet hole in the side of his neck - luckily he did not focus on us and we escaped unscathed! Please do not mention that we saw him as we do not want his mob chasing us through France. Thanks.

Rain, heat, humidity ..........

We are now in Confolens about 25kms short of our intended target in a pleasant hotel by the river Vienne. Since Brassac-Quince much has happened. The day to day milage has been interupted by rain, heat and humidity and decisions have to be made.

From Brassac we had a great days cycling through the wine area of the Loire. We followed the river for  30kms or so through Samur to a campsite in Montsoraux. This was about 5km north of Fontevraud with a famous Abbey - apparently it is world famous for something but I am not a churchy type of guy so you will need to ask Gilly when you see her - I was more interested in the Loire rose wine - which incedently I have half a caraffe in front of me now (the other 2 members of the team are asleep I think!!!!). The weather forecast was for rain and lots of it. It rained over night and the tipped it down all the next day - we stayed put - definately not cycling weather. A young Belgium couple who were camping near us decided otherwise and I hope they are safe.An old boy (maybe twice my age) stayed put but his cycling probaby puts us to shame - he was cycling the Loire Cycle Route from the source to the sea at St Nazzaire - great to see, hope I am like him in 20 years time.
On taking my tent down on Friday a pole broke - not sure why as it was not under pressure - I had a broken pole a year or two back and I now carry 4 pole repair sleeves which is just as well as the adjacent pole broke as I was putting the tent up in Parthenay.

We have started moving south now - I always feel the Loire is the border for the cool damp weather to the north and the warmer weather to the south. - I guess we should be careful what we wish for. We had a helpful wind and I feel I am getting stronger.
Parthenay Dist 84.86. Odo 468.0 As you can see it was a long day - the longest yet.

Saturday 29th saw us continuing south. The temperature saored to 35°C very hot for cycling and we all suffered - not enough water etc. but we arrived in Lustigan in good time.
Lustigan Dist 45.25 Odo 514

Yesterday was again 35°C + but for warned ...... we drank at least 5 bottles on the way. Gilly has learned the phrase to ask the barkeeper to fill our bottles. We met a fun group of walkers who wanted to know which football team we suported - rugby I said  Ha! He said we stuffed you at the weekend - did not know the result. We arrived in a delightful town of I'Isle Jourdain with a hugh viaduct and a small municiple campsite. There were an English group in the campsite going home on Monday - good fun and directed us to the centre of town for food and bars, as did the campsite lady.  We wandered around for over an hour, everything was shut." Of course it was", I hear you cry "what do you expect in small town France on a Sunday". Well we did hope for a bar or something. This has happened to Gilly  an I before - we should learn but we are getting old.
Dist 59.8 Odo 573.9

Today Monday 31st looked like it was going to be a cooler pleasanter day. After scraping around our bags for some morcels of food last night, we shared a few nuts, a little cheese, some hot chocolate and 2 apples an 3 peaches we scrumped from someones garden we were knocking on the supermarkets door at 9 o'clock. Pan au chocolate, some very nice pastry thingy's and some frankfertery sausages. We needed some energy.

The cycling so far has been anything but easy. Not much flat but rolling countryside. Some of the up rolls have been very chalenging and in the heat particularly energy sapping. John's bike has different gearing to mine and Gilly's, our bottom gear is much lower than his so we can tackle the hills better. Today the hills got to John, I guess the lack of food, the dehydration of the last couple of days and cycling without respite has taken it's toll. He twisted his back a few days ago and, although it is improving I am sure it has not helped.
We shortened our day and have holed up in Confolens in a hotel by the river.
Dist 33.88 Odo 607.8.

Some challenging riding.........

Stormy weather or what. We did not become storm bound as thought but set off on Monday morning with various plans. Between Craon and Chalonnes-sur-Loire,which was about 65km there was 1 hotel at 20 kms and a campsite at 45km. Plan A was to get the whole way to Chalonnes, plan B was to get as far as Segres and the lone hotel. The forecast was for heavy showers and 25knots of wind gusting 45knots from the south and we were heading just east of south. We made it to Sagres and sheltered for 40 minutes behind a wall as a strom passed over. We set off into an ever increasing wind but a wind that had started veering and was still comming from ahead but more over the right shoulder. Gilly had a bad tumble on her bike in Scotland in similar conditions and so was quite rightly a little apprehensive. The ground was very rolling  and the wind from the right was pushing us into the centre of the road in front of overtaking cars. Not for the faint hearted. We pushed on and stopped for lunch when the wind seemed to increase more. We were in a park under some poplar trees - as they blew over bits were flying past us so we decamped into a nearby bus shelter and waited for conditions to improve. I was just sitting there when I noticed my two companions were very quiet - they were fast asleep!!!! I left them for a while and as the wind started to ease a little we pushed on. If the conditions were not enough to contend with a local farmer took revenge on us - he was muck spreading in a field next to the road - speading stuff from a chicken farm and in the wind we were covered. We stank and little bits of stuff were all over us and down our shirts - we were not happy bunnies!
Still we ploughed on to Chalonnes only to find, because of the weather, all hotelsChambres were full apart from one which was 5km out of town. Camping was not an option so off we went,stopping off at a supermarche on the way as after 70km of hard and challenging riding nobody wanted to cycle bach into town for supper.
The Chambre D'Hote only had one room - room for 3 - when the little said roll over
, we all rolled over - a good way to get to know your brother-in-law! Eventually he got into the single bed in the corner. There was an Austrian lady staying, travelling for 3 weeks or so - she had never been to the UK but told us how bad our diet was as we have such bad fatty breakfasts, how bad our weather was - too much rain,  very expensive, no bakeries so only bad factory made bread, lousey cheese and so it went on, we on the other hand said nothing about Austria as only John had visited for a short business trip. I could understand why she was travelling as a single lady!!  What a day and we all felt great as you do after a challenge.
Dist to Chalonnes-sur-Loire  72.85km

Today, Tuesday was a much more relaxing ride. We followed the Loire up stream for 20 or more km not always in sight of water but on pleasant country roads on and off islands in the centre of the River. We had lunch looking at the old bridge acroos the River at Les Pont de Ce. It was another windy day, overcaste with drizzley showers. We were planning  to camp but the weather again was not conducive for tents.
We stopped early in Chalonnes at a bike shop where they took John's bottom bracket to bits and sorted it out - hopeful the problem is now solved.

I am definately a hotel man as opposed to Chambre D'hote. Our landlady,as much as she was nice and helpful talked for France and John & Gilly both talk for England - tonight a hotel and some peace & quiet!!!
 We are in Brassac-Quince, a pleasant town on a hill with a Castle/Chateauy thing.
Dist 39.9 km Odo 330.1km
We now have over 300km in our legs and the daily cycling is definately getting easier, whether I am thinning down into a racing snake is another matter - now we are in the Pays de le Loire we are into the wine and the cidre is left behind.

About to be storm bound.....

I am really glad we were in a hotel last night - lots of blitzzen and it came down in bucket fulls. To hot to have the windows shut so lay there and listened. The forecast was for it to stop at 1000 and it did so off we set on wet roads and continued south. More corn fields, lots more cows and a few chickens and goats. We have slipped out of Brittany and are now in Mayenne. It is appears that this is the part of France that is the butt of all their jokes - lucky there is not many folk living here - we saw at most a dozen people all day.
The weather got better all day and this afternoon we were in sunshine with a few clouds. The folk seem friendly despite me flying a white ensign on my bike and wearing a union flag cycling cap - at least they all speak English to me straight away.
Vitre was a medevil town with half wood terraced houses, cobbled streets and lots of touristy resaurants.
The forecaste is not good. We are expecting storms tonight and tomorrow morning with 25 gusting 40 knots of wind tomorrow from the southwest - just where we want to go - not good cycling weather.
Our very good landlady from last night in the Hotel Le Petit Billot spent much time sorting us a hotel for tonight and here we are. In Craon. The pronuctuation of Craon involves the sound of gathering all the spittle and saliva you can and forcing it down your nose - we avoid saying Croan.
The day 3 syndrome of tired legs etc. are all gone and cycling should get better from now on. Having said that the guide says that the terrain gets a little more rolling now - we already thought it hilly.
John's bike needs more work - it is the same problem as he had a couple of days ago - his bottom bracket is working loose and needs specialist tools to fix. Bike shop tommorrow I guess.
Dist 42.66km Odo 217.4

Rolling through Brittany...

It is now Saturday and we are cosy in a small hotel in Vitre - not that it is cold, in fact it is 30deg but it is wet - yep p....ing down and we are expecting a bit of donner & blitzen laters.  The last couple of days should have been flat according to our book but it has definately been undulating (a simple word that really means hilly). Once out of the main towns we have been on quiet country roads past farms, fields and horsey places. We were in Fougeres last night, great municiple campsite with all the facilities. In the evening we rode back through town to square beside the chateau and had the "menu Breton" - fantastic buckwheat crepe with ham, cheese and fried egg all washed down with plenty of Breton cidre. The cidre is very drinkable and all of us had more tonight.
Today was day 3 of noteable distances and, as in all adventures, day 3 & 4 are always difficult. Your body is getting used to the daily exercise and your mind is still wondering if you can do it and there is still 1400km to go. This was a typical day 3 - John's legs were feeling tired and a couple of the hills beat him - not that it mattered as Gilly and I were in the bottom gear and he was walking almost as fast as we were pedalling!
We have decided on lunch on the road - french bread, cheese and tomatoes, fruit and nuts. Simple but nice.
Heading south tomorrow we hope but rain is forecast for the morning - we shall see.
As for me I am doing OK no LMF and I feel I am cycling better an a couple of years ago in the States. I now have clear pipes around the heart and have done my training both on the bike and in the gym. The dissapointment is that Gilly is still beating me on the hill but watch this space.
Dist to Fougeres 41.81kms and to Vitre 37.1km Odo 174.7

Stretching our legs

Hi Ho.

We are in Pontorson about 10km south of Mont St Michel - in good spirits - and still speaking to each other - this must be a good sign.
We all met up on Monday evening in Poole and stayed at in  old naval buddy's house. Some had an uneventful journey, others who came by train, John, had an interesting time. His train was cancaled due to a broken train so had to go to a different station, despite having a gps machine a phone with google maps and a background of map reading what should have been a 25 minute journey at most was nearly 2 hours - excuses - it was all hot air!!!

We left at 0500 to catch the Condor ferry - no problems and a very flat crossing to Guernsey and a couple of hours stop over. We were having coffee and John asked the very pleasant waitress what do you call someone who comes from Guernsey expecting a reply like 'Guernseyian' but she said A Donkey and she said it was better than coming from Jersey who are called Crappos. Learn something new when you least expect it.
We arrived in St Malo and after a few false starts ended up in a very busy campsite overlooking the harbour and old town.
Wednesday morning the adventure started - on the road by 0840, down to the old quarter and off - along the sea front with fantastic views of St Malo. We cracked along the coast roller coasting from bay to bay until Cancale - oyster capital of this coast and probably France. A little shack by the beach sold a dozen for €5 - we were just about to order when the seller sliced open his hand while opening the oysters for the folk ahead of - we slid across to the next vendor - fresh oysters with lemon - fantastic!
We could see Mont St Michele 20 miles across the bay  and off we pedalled - flat warm and pleasant under  cloudy skys. Pontorson and a very good campsite. We notched up over 60km on the first day - we were all wilting towards the end but LMF has been left in England and the motto 'show no weakness' was to the fore.
Today was a there and back ride to the Mont along a cycle path from the campsite along the river - twas good until we arrived at the parking area when we fought with another 100 or so folk to get on the shuttle bus. When arrived at St Michele we join a few thousand who got there before us. They reckon 4million visit each year phew!,
We leave the coast tomorrow and head south. John's bike needed a mechanic - the guy from the hire shop here at the campsite was terrific and my bike needed abit of sorting. We are all fixed now and rareing to go.
Dist - 96 km

France - get prepared we are on our way!!

Hi Ho Yous Folk.

We are in the final preparations for our next journey. This will be a little less strenuous and a little less adventurous than our last couple of trips but should be no less enjoyable. We are cycling from St Malo (northern France) to Nice (southern France) - 1000 miles or more or 1600 km ish.

About 10 years ago I was diagnosed with a dicky ticker and during the last trip down the Pacific Highway from Vancouver to Mexico, I noticed that things were getting worse - for one thing Gilly was beating me up the hills!! I went back to my cardio man and the outcome was that I had a bypass op. I have spent the last year trying to get my body working and strengthened and hopefully I am now sort of OK perhaps not back to my fighting strength but well on the way. I am keeping my fingers crossed that I am fit jenough to do the daily mileage without getting too tired.

A new body requires a new bike - I am the proud owner of  a Genisis Longitude set up as a trekking/expedition bike with 700c  wheels.  True to form, Gilly wanted a new bike  as well - she now has a Trek 7.4 also with 700c wheels. .John, Gilly's brother,  is joining us for his first long tour, he has spent a week in Holland, a long weekend on the Isle of Wight and joined us on the Severn Thames trip a couple of months ago. John has gradually upgraded his bike from a basic Raleigh 8 geared bike to a touring spec bike.

Sandy's                                Gilly's                       John's