We Knocked The Bxxxard Off ....

Twas a cold  and windy morning and the Captain said "gather round lads let me tell you a story" - Twas not only a cold and windy morning twas driving rain and only just above feezing - but a man's got to do what a man's got to do and we did it!

We hit the road at about 1000 after a late breakfast and headed the 9 miles to the top of Lewis into a strong northerly and plenty of rain - full oilskins from the start. It was not flat and we made some hard yards but arrived at the Butt of Lewis in good heart, a little cold and definately wet. A kind lady got out of her car and offered to take a pic - otherewise it would have been a selfie. It is the windiest place in the Hebredies and a wild coast. The lighthouse is impressive - yet another built by Stevenson.

We headed east for a couple of miles to the Port of Ness, a small interesting fishing village with a maze of harbour walls to give protection to the small fishing boats. We lunched in a great little cafe overlooking the harbour and sands. There were a small pod of minke whales in the bay surfacing every so often and causing excitment to the folk in the cafe. We headed back to whence we came with the wind behind.

This morning was a 0630 pedal out - bad weather predicted with increasing winds from the south by mid morning and rain after lunch. The 20 miles to Stornoway took us just over 2 hours and we checked into our hostel, dropped our bags and tucked into a full Scotish B'fast at 1000 - boy was i hungry.. Twas then off for our final cyle quest - a monument to Bonnie Prince Charlie south of town - what it did not say was that it was a hilly ride - tested my already tiresd legs.

We are now back in our hostel - the wind is howling, the rain pelting down and we are relaxing. Sightseeing tomorrow then ferry back to the mainland and to Aberdeen then homeward bound on Friday.

It has been a challenging tril, some big hills, particularly in Shetland and some fierce weather but as our old school motto says 'Quit Ye Like Men, Be Strong' - we have certainly lived up to that!

The Odo for the trip is 435 miles - it may not be as high as other routes we have travelled but I feel I have pedalled every inch. I have enjoyed Pat's company and it has been a good trip.

                    The Rusty Sign at the end

                          Wet - Wet - Wet

The end is in view ...

We are in a B&B within spitting distance of the end, from the garden of our abode at South Galson we can see the Butt of Lewis Lighthouse.

Maggie, our landlady last night, is 6th generation on the property which the family aquired after the land clearances and under the 'Crofting Act'. This gave the people the right to some  land. Most land was for deer hunting and bird shooting leaving the poorer land available to the people. A 'Croft' normally has a strip of land and in Maggie's case is about 9 acres stretching down hill into the peat and heather moor below the house. In some areas you can see the strips running down from the houses. However last evening when Pat asked about the 'crofting' Maggie, who is a Gaelic speaker and local guide went on in great detail and I am afraid my eyes glazed over. Interestingly40% of people in the Outer Hebrides are Gaelic speakers and do not learn English until they go to school.

A stiff southerly blew us along all day, some light rain came and went throughout the day. We knew that everything would be closed as the northern part of the Outer Hebredies is solid proestant and serious prespeterian. As we passed the churches this morning the car parks were full! We did find a hotel open for coffee this morning and our Harrow teacher coaght up with us and discussed the defence of the realm and other weighty topics. We had lunch in a Sheilling (spelt many ways) - a basic crofters shelter which was common until the mid 1900's. We visited the Callanish Stone - the Hebrides answer to Stone Henge but really did not cut the mustard - we have better stone on Dartmoor but just don't mention them.

Our plan is to cycle to the lighthouse with unladen bikes and return here tomorrow. Unfortunateely there is no room in the B&B so we will be slumming it  in the Hostel attached. We then plan to cycle to Stornoway for a couple of nights before catching the ferry to Ullapool. Distance today 35mls.

                        Stones of Callanish

                          Morning coffee

                           Sheiling - lunch

                  Not a log pile but a peat pile!

Blue Skies in Lewis

A pleasand day in the sunshine and light winds. Lewis is less dramatic then Harris, gentler rolling ground with peat, moorland prvailing. Small villages every few miles and just 1 shop all day.

We had coffe in a school which closed a few years ago and is now the local Historical Society and a tearoom. Speaking to the lad who served us he was just 1 of two pupils in his class at the school.

Just as we were leaving a group of cyclists went passed. Unloaded but not too quick. Pat realised that an overtake was on - he speeded off up the hill after them and out of sight. I stopped to speak to a local farmer and by the time i caught up with Pat he had done the dirty deed. A moral overtake - he took thew 2w slow guys at the back just before they regrouped with the main pack at the top of a hill. Not bad on a laden bike. This group was cycling to the Butt of Lewis from Tarbert -/ we are taking 3 days for that distance..

We are in a B&B in the middle of Lewis, probably the only village not by the coast. Another cyclist is staying - much qicker than us - he has just left Harrow School after 302 years as an Art Teacher. This is the first September in his life that he doesa not have to be anywhere. He has not reached retirement age and is going to set up a studio and try and make his living as a artist. Interesting.

We had our first major mechanical  problem, the bearing in Pat's pedal seized. Taxi into Stornoway to get new pedalls - fixed.

We did 25 miles today. Bigger day tomorrow and forecast is for southerly winds.

Big Hills to Lewis....

Hostel life can be interesting with a mix of folk thrown together in smal rooms. In our hostel there was a mens dorm, a ladies dorm and a mixed couples dorm. Our fellow bed partners was an older walker who went to bed early and snored and grunted all night and a youngish American lad who totally ignored me but spoke to other Yankeedoodles who were statying. One bubbly lady in the morning said that one of the ladies was a real pain in the arxx and she wished she had left yesterday. She loved wild camping and sea swimming and went to Orkney in February and swam every day - each to their own I guess.

Today was big hill day - biggest climb of the trip into the mountains of Harris. The forecast was OK, rain to start but more strong westerlies. Our first few miles were into it and then it was behind us into the mountains.

We only had 15 miles planned for today to Scaladale Outdoor Centre - we are the only people staying and there are no staff. It is also miles away from civilisation thus we stocked up on food  for the next few meals. We stopped pretty soon at a glass and craft centre. Interesting place, recently set up by a couple who gradualy moved north over the last 20 years. She born in Cornwall moved north, met her husband and set up shop in Newcastle and then came out here to Harris. There shop and workshop is by the loch and a fabulous place to be - and while we had coffee a stream of visitors can, bought stuff and left. They said that once over the hills there was a 'van fish cafe thingy' in a layby - not to be missed.

The hill was long and steep and we walked the last hundred yards of the steep bit as having stopped it was too steep to get going. The cars were fast but gave us plenty of room and the lorries threw up vast amounts of spray. We made a fast decent into a blustery wind and stumbled across our hostel. As we thought - all to ourselves, drying room with washing machine, big kitchen and good showers - all good. The 'Fish Cafe was still a mile or so away so we unloaded and rode there for a late lunch. Great fish and 'cake'  The lads from our hostel 2 nights ago stopped and we met 2 other lots of touring cyclists.

The rumour is that the weather is better tomorrow - sunshine ans not much wind - hurrah! . Distance today 15mls.

                      Our hostel in Tarbert

                        Rainbow and wind

                                Big hill

Our fish cafe - note the lowered tent - too much wind

A Jaunt up Harris ......

Twas a good decision to stay in Leverburgh overnight - the hostel was different with a jaunty style run by a guy who was proud of the fact he was kicked out of Sandhurst. I believe in those day homosexuallity was illegal in the services and this could have been the reason. However he ran a great hostel. We shared a 6 berth room with an older  dutch couple who had electric bike - this will be the future for us I am sure!

0730 Pat and I rode out to find St Clements Church and our next cycle quest.

We took the wrong road - we cyycled 3 miles with a westerly gale behind us and the only way to get to the church was via a 1 mile muddy track. No way - the cycle back to the hostel was hard - the internet is a wonderful thing and gave us the answer to the quest - yeah!

There were a group of about 7 lads - I say lads, they were about 30ish on a cycling thingy with vehicle support. They were hoping to get out to St Kilda but the boats were all cancelled. They were humming and haaring about what to do, I senced a reluctance to get out into the westerly 20 knot wind. We hardened guys had no such reluctance and headed off initially to the west into it and then gradually went north and eventually eat across the centre of Harris.

We stopped at a visitor centre and learnt about the geology and geaneology of the Islands - fascinating, Pat has mentioned all about it in his blog.  This is a stunning coast, languid white sand beaches and rugged headlands and islets. We stopped on a windy headland for lunch - we were interupted by the 7 lads who had braved the elements to cycle around Harris - good on them. Just as we were setting off Richy, my son, rang to say they are catching tonights ferry across to the Islands - 40 knots predicted - I hope he has a sick bag close to hand. Unfortunately we are too far north now to meet up but I believe he and a mate are kite suffing and kayaking - good luck wiith that although it looks as though the weather is slowly improving.

The sun came out a little, no rain and mainly a following wind - no rain gear on for the first time in a week. We had a good breeze pushing us up the biggest hill so far this trip, We then cruised down into Tarbet where we are in a backpackers hostel. We have been impressed with the standard of hostels, all provide duvets etc. coffee, tea and some cereals and bread - about 20 to 25 per night.

We popped into the Post Office and despatched out tents home - we are not going to camp as the accommodaion is good and we have booked up until we leave. Anything to lighten our bikes as we are in the mountains tomorrow with a big hill day! Our distance today was just over 26 miles and our odo stands at 303mls.

              Our Hostel in Leverburgh Harris

                          A windy lunch spot

      Tis I - just to prove I am on this trip!

Force 10 to Harris...

After a stormy night in our Pod, Pat's alarm awoke us at 0530. Rain was pelting our walls and the wind, from the SW was blowing a hoolie. Dawn had not yet broken and our plan to catch the 1030 ferry across to Harris was looking decidedly doddgy. As it got lighter the rain eased and at 0700 we rolled out (about 1 hour later than planned) to tackle the 22 miles to the ferry at Berneray. The wind was due to back around to the north and increase to 40mph about 1000. We were soaked within 5 minutes of starting and getting blown all over the road. However the rain eased and we gradually started to head north - we started to make good progress. 5 miles from the ferry - bang - the wind hit us with a vengence - 40 mph on the nose. Single track road with cars trying to get to the ferry pushing past, severe bufetting from the gale pushing us back up the hills - stuff of nightmares for a cyclist. However when the going gets tough - yep you got it - the tough get going. We made some hard yards and got to the ferry with 10 minuets to spare.

The passage between the islands to Harris is dangerous waters with rocky shallows and narrow passages. Interesting in the high winds but the ferry arrived in good order. We had already decided to call it a day and had booked a hostel just by the ferry terminal.

We deserved a good lunch thus a a couple of pints and some fish and chips hit the spot. The forecast for tomorrow is not the best, slacker winds but from the NW, it will means head winds for the first 10 miles or so before we head east across the Island.

We have booked accommodation for the next few days - it will be much more hiily and thus we will have shorter days. We arestill on track to complete the route.

              Our Pod in the evening sunshine

                        View from the Pod

                      Harris here we come

                        We have landed

Oilskins donned to North Uist.....

0530 alarm and a pre dawn departure to catch the first ferry to Eriskay. A fast 4 miles to the teminal and met up with 20 other cyclists who had been stranded yeterday. Weather was considerably eased and a smooth 50 minute crossing  - the Jordies, who were on a mission, set off never to be seen again wanting to catch the 1130 ferry to Berneray 60 miles away,. The remainder were left wallowing in their dust and us oldies brought up the rear. We stopped for bacon butties at the first cafe only to see that no other cyclist had stopped - they must all be on a mission.

These southern islands are flat on the coast and hilly in the middle - our route follows the coast. Unfortunately it was not long until the weather closed in - full wet weather gear but with a following wind. The roads are single track with passing places and some of the locals ignor these wider bits and squeeze past you pasing too close and too fast. Mind you some cyclists are not too considerate - we had stopped to allow a car to proceed towards us only to be overtaken by a lady cyclist who just said Hi as she passed and held up the car

We had 2 cycle quest things, the first was Flora Macdonald to whom there is a monument, she helped Bonnie Prince Charlie escape to Skye, he landed from France at the beach by the ferry landing on Eriskay. The second was a grand war memorial in the middle of Benbecular where the rain stopped and we had lunch.

40 miles is about right for us so we booked a pod on South Uist and the rain returned about 15 minutes before we got there and soaked us. We are by the sea and if the rain stops and we could see out I am sure it would be a terrific view across the small iselets we crossed on our way here. There are a couple of other of our cohort of cyclist who arrived just after us. We have heard on the grapevine that some have given up and headed for Skye as the forcaste for tomorrow is not good at all. We will probably make a pre dawn start and dash for the ferry 22 miles away before the 40 knots northerly wind hits us.

We are in pretty good shape - 'tis just a shame about the weather. Distance 42.5 mls. Our Odo to date reads 259mls.

Ferry Eriskay and Bonnie Prince Charles beach

              Flora Macdonald's Memorial

                            War Memorial