Big Hills to Lewis....

Hostel life can be interesting with a mix of folk thrown together in smal rooms. In our hostel there was a mens dorm, a ladies dorm and a mixed couples dorm. Our fellow bed partners was an older walker who went to bed early and snored and grunted all night and a youngish American lad who totally ignored me but spoke to other Yankeedoodles who were statying. One bubbly lady in the morning said that one of the ladies was a real pain in the arxx and she wished she had left yesterday. She loved wild camping and sea swimming and went to Orkney in February and swam every day - each to their own I guess.

Today was big hill day - biggest climb of the trip into the mountains of Harris. The forecast was OK, rain to start but more strong westerlies. Our first few miles were into it and then it was behind us into the mountains.

We only had 15 miles planned for today to Scaladale Outdoor Centre - we are the only people staying and there are no staff. It is also miles away from civilisation thus we stocked up on food for the next few meals. We stopped pretty soon at a glass and craft centre. Interesting place, recently set up by a couple who gradualy moved north over the last 20 years. She born in Cornwall moved north, met her husband and set up shop in Newcastle and then came out here to Harris. There shop and workshop is by the loch and a fabulous place to be - and while we had coffee a stream of visitors can, bought stuff and left. They said that once over the hills there was a 'van fish cafe thingy' in a layby - not to be missed.

The hill was long and steep and we walked the last hundred yards of the steep bit as having stopped it was too steep to get going. The cars were fast but gave us plenty of room and the lorries threw up vast amounts of spray. We made a fast decent into a blustery wind and stumbled across our hostel. As we thought - all to ourselves, drying room with washing machine, big kitchen and good showers - all good. The 'Fish Cafe was still a mile or so away so we unloaded and rode there for a late lunch. Great fish and 'cake' The lads from our hostel 2 nights ago stopped and we met 2 other lots of touring cyclists.

The rumour is that the weather is better tomorrow - sunshine ans not much wind - hurrah! . Distance today 15mls.