Maggie, our landlady last night, is 6th generation on the property which the family aquired after the land clearances and under the 'Crofting Act'. This gave the people the right to some land. Most land was for deer hunting and bird shooting leaving the poorer land available to the people. A 'Croft' normally has a strip of land and in Maggie's case is about 9 acres stretching down hill into the peat and heather moor below the house. In some areas you can see the strips running down from the houses. However last evening when Pat asked about the 'crofting' Maggie, who is a Gaelic speaker and local guide went on in great detail and I am afraid my eyes glazed over. Interestingly40% of people in the Outer Hebrides are Gaelic speakers and do not learn English until they go to school.
A stiff southerly blew us along all day, some light rain came and went throughout the day. We knew that everything would be closed as the northern part of the Outer Hebredies is solid proestant and serious prespeterian. As we passed the churches this morning the car parks were full! We did find a hotel open for coffee this morning and our Harrow teacher coaght up with us and discussed the defence of the realm and other weighty topics. We had lunch in a Sheilling (spelt many ways) - a basic crofters shelter which was common until the mid 1900's. We visited the Callanish Stone - the Hebrides answer to Stone Henge but really did not cut the mustard - we have better stone on Dartmoor but just don't mention them.
Our plan is to cycle to the lighthouse with unladen bikes and return here tomorrow. Unfortunateely there is no room in the B&B so we will be slumming it in the Hostel attached. We then plan to cycle to Stornoway for a couple of nights before catching the ferry to Ullapool. Distance today 35mls.
Not a log pile but a peat pile!
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