It was a good route, traversing just below the hills in amongst the vineyards and passing through some interesting small villages. We were looking for coffee after aboyt 20km and were directed to the lical butchers - good coffee which wevdrank on a bench outside looking at some old building wondering how the survived with the number of cracks.
Just after lunch Pat's front forks lost their suspension and were bottoming out at the slightest bump. It being Saturday everything shuts at 3 or 4 o'clock. Pat rang the bike shops mentioned in our guide and luckily one shop did know zbout Fox front suspension forks and would look at it if he could get there for 4. Pat leapt off and Giily and I carried on at a pace that reflected our age. Meanwhile Di had arrived in Mainz to discover it was full and could only get rooms at the Hilton. Expensive. Our route to the Hilton was along a busy promanade weaving in and out of strolling pedestrians. Just as I turn off the the Hotel I nearly hit a portly gentleman and said "sorry". I stopped a few yards further on and he passed me and said "yoyr not from around here are you" in Englush. It turned out ge was the Mayor of High Wickham on an exchange cultural visit with a small town near Mainz - he was having a great time spending our hard earned council tax.
What do you get in the Hilton that you don't get in less expensive hotels - not sure - if we wznted wifi we had to pay extra, free at every other pkace we have stayed. Just enough shower gel, sacks at other pkaces. Breakfast at €30per head, €7at other places. I am struggling to see why they charge so much - I guess it is the corparate cluents, airline crews etc. who keep them going.
Pat returned with news of his forks - knackered - but the good news was the air side could hold pressure so if he rides with is well pumped up and locked he may be able to complete the ride.
Mainz Distance53.94km Odo 845.5km
Sunday 10 Sepember
A cold start and a slightly hungry one. No breakfast for us at the Hilton. It took us 15km to find somewhere to get a bun/pastry and coffee but for just €5 we had some good local sustenance. We cycled on the right bank as far as Rudesheim which is the start of the Rhine Gorge - it is the most visited place by foreigners after Koln Cathedral. It was busy. Di joined us for lunch and then crossed over with us on the ferry to the left bank before continuing her way by train. She arrived at the same time as us in Bacharch.
Great place, old houses, a choice of eating places and one of the quainter paces we have stayed.
Bacharach Dist 51.56 Odo 897.5
Monday 11th
This is day 17 of our jaunt down the Rhine and we are looking forward to a day off in Koblenz. It was a drizzly start and the town had a small supermarket. Whikst Gilly & Pat were stocking up with provisions (Gilly forgot to get any bananas for me!) a couple of folk stopped to do the same thing. I asked where they were going - Frankfurt - Oh I replied, how far is that? - 90km or so. I always feel inferrior when talking to Germans about distances travelled - 90k is way past anything we contemplate. You would think I would learn and keep well clear of the subject.
Di took a boat through the gorge - overtook us when we were 15k in - with the 8 to 10 knot current she flew passed and arrived in Koblenz well before us.
The bike trail is good right by the river, both rail and road hug the river. Unfortunately Pat's forks list pressure again which makes riding hard and with the suspension bottoming out at each bump, he may damage the forks iripairably.
The news came down the airways the Koblenz was full but Di had secured a couple of rooms for just one night. We arrived via a bike shop and after settling in walked down to 'German Corner' where the River Mosel joins the Rhine. Impressive as there is a hugh statue of kaiser Whilhelm the something or other which has been restored to comemorate the unification of Germany.
Koblenz Dist 54.05km Odo 951.58
Tuesday 12th September
No rooms - so decision made to pedal on. Pat an Di have been contemplating their future on the Rhine. Their deadline for returning to UK precludes them finishing the trail. We have the industrial heartland of Germany coming up - not too inspiring - and Pat is keen to visit Arnhem.
Off to Konigswinter - a resort town on the right bank. Another drizzly start but the day improved with just a couple of showers in the afternoon. Both Gilly and Pat needed to ring UK to sort out a couple of things so at about 10 o'clock we stopped at a Berger King. We sat out side wher 3 guys were 3 sheets o the wind supping beer from cans and other stuff from a bottle. Seemed quite friendly, them macho man arrived on his bike and said something to us in a direct and agressive manner. Pat replied we were English and he seemed to settle down. He reminded me of a football thug of yesteryear. Just as we were leaving we were discussing his bike and he made threatening jestures as if he thought we would nick it. An unpkeasant man fueled by booze and unpredicable.
The river is wide now. We passed the remenants of Renigen Bridge the only bridge captured by the Allies in tack, which colapsed about 2 weeks later but allowed the Allies to march on into this part of Germany. The big towers on either side of the river remain.
No hotels on Koln within our price range so we have arrived in
Konigswinter. A pleasant town.
Our plans have now become clear, tomorrow we cycle to Koln, Pat and Di will then train passed the industrial cities and Pat will have one more days cycling to Arnhem. We are going to cycle through, we have the time and although it is not the prettiest part of the Rhine, it is all part of the Journey. We are going to catch the overnight ferry from Hoek on Saturday 23rd.
Konigswinter Dist 59.44 Odo 1010.9km.
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