Refreshed with clean clothes

Wednesday 6th September

Had a good day in Saltsbourg and Gilly and Di sussed out a laundrette. Great to put on machine washed cycling undershorts, not the hand washed still with a bit of yesterdays sudocreme shorts I have been wearing for the previous 10 days. Refreshed from walking and not bouncing along gravel paths, my BTM feels good.

We had a good day today, belting along with the wind behind, strengthening as the day went on. Tarmac all the way, through small towns and then on the polder of the Rhine for the final kms. It is a big river now with barges ploughing their trade, i wondered if it was cost effective pushing into the fast flowing river and they seemed to be only making a couple of knots.

Pat had our first puncture today, just as the rain came - not straight forward as he messed up his back brake pads refitting his back wheel. There was a bike shop 200m down the road who sorted out the problem and after a cuppa we were on our way.

We are in Lauterbourg - seems a pleasant little town. Dist 74.66km Odo 668.2km.

Thursday 7th

Speyer was our objective for today. 66 kms mainly along tarmaced cycle paths. There have been some flood defence work going on along the west bank which has effected the route. Our guide suggests using the east bank through Karlsruhe - a modern city. This did not appeal so we set out along the west bank. About 10 to 15kms along an old German guy chatted to us and thought that the 'official'route was rubish and invited us to follow him as he knew a better route. Off he set on his electric bike and we followed - the Pied Piper of Hamlin came to mind as we duely followed in single file - it was a good route. He was unusual for a German as he had a sence of humour and smiled a lot - thanks old boy, it was a pleasure to meet you.

The Rhine is a fast flowing (maybe 8 knots) with a growing comercial use. We passed a container port - this is about 500 miles from the sea. The vessels going up river seem to crawl up whereas those going with the flow overtake us and we cycke atv20kph.

As we entered Speyer there is a 747 parked on top of the techno musem - we are ensconced in the Techno Hotel just by.

Friday 8th

What a change - 3 power stations, 10sq kms of BASF producing chemicals and plastics and city after city on the banks. The BASF place employes 32,000 people, has it's own transport system of busses, trams and loads of bicycles. There is some agriculture in between but not a picturesque day. There was a group of German folk - maybe 12 or more, all elderly couples who were on our trail. They had tags on their bikes, we think they were having their baggage transported from stop to stop. They were belting along and kept getting lost, we would meet again and go our separate ways just to see them again. They stopped in Mannheim - the home of the motor car, Karl Benz produced his first petrol powered car here.

Wind behind again but much cooler today - jacket weather - some rain expected tomorrow.

Di is still a camp follower, she arrives by train, goes to the Tourist Office and sorts out our accommodation. Tonight we are in an appartment right by the Rhein - very good and well priced.

Worms Distance 55.52km Odo 792.02km.

Resting in Strasbourg

We are in Strasbourg. It has taken us 10 days cycling to get here. We started in the high Alps, screamed down the mountain side, sweated through gorges, cruised around the Bodansee and gently followed the Rhine across the French agricultural plains. We left Switzerland in Basel - expensive and efficient but the Germanic trait of lack of smiling and staring were ever present. We heard a beautiful local choir singing traditional songs with fantastic harmonic yodeling, saw hugh Zeplins giving tourists a view across the Bodensee and I fell off twice in one day. Yep, I am afraid to say I made an organised escape from my bike when the front wheel failed to go up over the curb and once a loaded bike begins to topple it goes. As if I had not learnt my lesson, I did the same in Basel, again at slow speed and I was able to jump off as it went.

We are now in France where bonjour rings out across the trail unless you are a French lycra clad. It seems quite beneath them to acknowledge the greeting from a mear tourer, if they fail to reply I give them the English tradition retort of 'bxllxcks'. The Maginot Line ran down this part of France and in a small town called Markolsheim they have bought one of the posts and turned into a small museum - interesting. The Line ran almost right across France to prevent invaision from the east (Germany) - fantastic fortifications. Unfortunately the Germans knew about it so bypassed the Line and came into France via Belgium - just not cricket what!

We had 2 long days to get here from Basel, 67km to Neuf-Brisack, a small one horse town with a wall as a fortress and then 78Km to get to Strasbourg. Both days were basically following the Rhone au Rhin Canal so generally flat and the last day on a very good tarmac canal towpath. I regret to say things do come in 3s. I came off again this time on some mud on the trail after the rain of a few days ago. Slow speed and again I jumped off as I lost control. Nothing hurt but my pride.

A day off and sight seeing - interesting cathedral, took a mini-train ride around the historic quarter then a tram to see the European Parlaiment - what a waste of billions, very impressive but only used half the time - all part of the European gravy-train, I think I am pleased we are leaving.

We are at least 4 days behind, regardless Gilly and I will be home by 24th September and I think Di  and Pat have a deadline a day or two before that.

Our legs are working well, I am enjoying the ride and I think we should average 60 -65km per day. We have a pow-wow tonight over supper to take stock and make plans.

Our Odo reads 593.6kms - maybe 800ish to go.

Back on the Rhine

It has been an eventful few days. Wedneday was undulating and very hot. The Rhine empties out of the Bodenese near Stein am Rhine and is now a big river. There are lots of cyclists mainly on electric bikes we seem like the poor relations. There was an odd couple - man couple - he number 1 was 6ft 6 and burly, he number 2 was very much the ladyboy, short, not an ounce of fat on him, very skimpy and tight shorts with no VPL (visible panty line) and twice as fast on the bike as his burly mate. Our paths crossed continually during the day, ladyboy would cycle off ahead and burly man would chase. Eventually ladyboy stripped off and was cycling just in his skimpy shorts - i guess tantalising burly man to go faster.

The Rhine gorge is Europes highest waterfall - we only saw a litt

le as you have to pay - i refuse to pay to see a natural feature. We had lunch with the crowds and unfortunately Gilly lost her purse, we cancelled the cards straight away and just lost 20 Swissfrances - could have been worse.

We pedalled on to Flaach we had great difficulty finding accommodation, eventually we stopped in a farmers garden awaiting for them to  come in from the potato harvest as we thought they had rooms. They did -  small appartment - cycled back into town to a eating house run by a Swiss/American - very good local food. Cycled back in the dark - became slightly navigationaly challenged but just beat the thunderstome to our lodgings. Some big claps of thunder.
Distance 54.76 Odo 325.4km

Thursday started dry but not for long. A hard old day in the wet. There was a hefty hill to get the heart started right at the beginning and little hills every so often just to keep us honest. I have had trouble with my front brake - keeps binding so we had to stop for 30 mins while i had a go at that. After lunch in a bus shelter, we decided to take the main road - it was exciting as we when through a 1.3km curvy tunnel with cars & lorries speeding past at 80kph. Rain, head wind and we had decided to call it a day earlier than planned.

Waldshut 50.83 Odo 376.2

This a great cycle route with some very interesting medeaval villages, great old painted houses and fabulous squares. Waldshut was one of these and we enjoyed some great tradition Swiss cuisene.

Friday 1st Sept -  our 6th day in the saddle. With plenty of gravel tracks, some very bumpy and bruising, with yet more rain making our shorts damp these are ideal conditions for saddlesoreness. Yep I have reverted to some lunchtime crutch rubbing to keep the worst at bay - thank goodness for Sudocreme - sooths those parts other medicines can't reach.

A good ride today despite the rain, we want to arrive in Basel tomorrow to meet Di at about midday as she is rejoining us after her travels around various friend in Switzerland. Mainly on cycle tracks - some tarmaced some not. Towards the end we had had enough of rough going and took to the road. Swiss drivers are really good and lorries are patient and give you a wde berth. Some great overtakes today - no electrics but some folk definately under 80!!

Rheinfelden was our resting place but it was full of university graduates wearing their red hats (university identification), smart grey suits (both men and women) and drinking lots of booze. It seems that this weekend is when all the espiring wanabees decend on Rheinfelden to get pissed. Consequently there was no room at any Inn. However, with the help of a hotel receptionist a place was found in a Resort Hotel - wow, it was many hundreds per night, lucky they had forms so we could take out a mortgage. We could however get, massaged, throw some weights around in the gym, swim, go to the 'well clinic' and much more but we were kbackered so after a pleasant supper we retired at 2000. The cafe was a viewing platform for the indoor heated pool, in UK I believe there is a no petting rule, it appears not in Switzerland, there was a little more toutching, snogging and cuddlung going on than an ancient cyclist should have to see. Phew!!
Distance 48.41 Odo424.4

Saturday - we are in Basel, in the aforementioned Motel One - yep good location, great price. We have to lock our bikes in the secure bike garage under the station - very impressive. You pay a 3.50 franc tourist tax and this gives you free tram travel. We've use it a couple of times, very impressive.  The ride into Basel was OK. Weather was OK but the rain clouds were gathering and we dawdled too long over our morning coffee and got a soaking jusy 500m from our hotel. Di is back with us with and we look forward to tales from other parts of Switzerland.

There is some sort of music festival going on and one venue is just near our hotel - hope it does not go on too long tonight.

80km per day was too ambitious, our creaking bodies, sore backsides and mental strength were being tested thus we are reducing our milage to maybe 55 or 60km per day. Stopping about 1530 to look for hotels. This means we could be about a week later than planned returning to UK. This maybe a problem for Pat and Di who have some family commitments so could leave us a day or two before we dip our ties in the sea.
Distance 23.83 Odo 448.3km.

Downhill in the Alps

Phew - what a rollercoaster. Di is staying with us and using the very efficient Swiss Rail to folliw us. She has gone to visit a friend near Bern for a few days who is taking her to the hospital tomorrow for her 5 day check-up. We should meet up again on Wednesday.

Friday, Pat & Di went down to Andermatt to sort out insurance stuff, ship her bike home and generally get sorted. We wanted to trek to the source of the Rhine and when Pat said they would not be back before 3, Gilly and I decided to go by ourselves. It was a serious walk, no stroll in the park, OK for the first half but straight up for 1000ft for the last part. Although it was a path it became very steep and rough walking. I had decided to wear teva's and when we got to the source a Swiss guy in full mountain kit sort of gave me a bollocking - tough us English I said. Tomasee is a high mountain lake from which a stream emerges and drops steeply into the valley. It was that valley we were to folliw on Saturday. We arrived back at our hostel 5 hours later knackeroonied - tougher than we had thought.

Saturday and we got our bikes out. We planned to do the steep downhill followed by the major (1000ft) climb of the whole trip. Down for 40km, wet roads to start but dried out lower doan, passed the highest golf course in Europe, through fantastic mountains gaining speed with increased confidence in our loaded bikes. Stopped for lunch to refuel before the climb. Then it started - up, more up then steeper up. Round fantastic gorges, crossing cascading steams filling the Rhine. Our sweat could have caused flooding down the valley. Legs aching, Gilly was fading and we found a watering hole. Great. Di had travelled the route by luxury train, had arrived in Chur, the oldest city in Switzerland and booked a hotel in the old quater. Great, having got navigationally challenged in the pedestrian area where it was, we eventually arriveed at 1900 - a long 10 hour day.
Chur. Distance: 86.47km a big day in the saddle!

Sunday was the cycling we had paid for - flat, following wind, cycle track with no traffic and right beside the Rhine. Bigger river now, fast flowing and still in the Mountains. We crossed to the east bank to cycle in Lichtentein, rich, small and hilly. Back to the Swiss side and fatigue began to set in. A thunderstorm errupted having been gathering for an hour or more, luckily we sheltered in a very smelly hay barn. We found a hotel enroute and called it a day.
 Oberriet. Distance: 68.34km. Odo 154.81

Monday. Our route took us away from the Rhine into farms and rural countryside but good cycling. We had decided to have a shorter day to recover and i have alwzys found that day 3 of any exped is the hardest. We were heading for Lake Constance or the Bodensee. We were planni g to cycle the north shore although the official Rhine route takes you south. The 'book' says this is the most popular part of the Rhine route for young and old. Thoughts of overtakes loomed. However everyone seems to have electrically assisted bikes - we have no chance, then a group of arrogant, German men of 60+ overtook us just as we started off after a drink stop. They were slightly slower than us, Gilly was leading, i was second and I could see her gathering her loins and she launc

hed an attack. We sped past and left them eating our dust, but an overtake is not an overtake unless you maintain it for 1km. Gilly was tiring, i took the lead and we made it. We came to a junction and the group tried to retake us, their keader did but Pat and I exerted our superiority and prevented them from getting past. They turned off as we crossed over the causeway on Lindau Island. One of them was on an electric bike. Yeah! Gilly was knackered. Coffee was in order.
We are now in a pleasant hotel in Nonnenhom, Germany on the North Shore. Good day. I have issues with my brakes - BA were rough with tham, buckled back wheel and buckled front and rear brake discs - my bike had been dropped and dragged - a bit pissed off to put it mildly.
Distance 53.76. Odo 208.58

Our original plan was to average 80km per day, Pat & I in our new sleek bodies could probably manage this but it is probably too ambitious for the group, maybe 65km per day may be realistic. This would put us a few days later at the ferry in Hoek van Holland. All's well and it should be a great trip - let's hope the weather holds. Yeah!

Bodensee and beyond

Hi Ho

It is fabulous cycling. Cycle routes on tarmac and gravel keep us away from the traffic and it is now virtually flat. The weather could not have been better - sun, more sun and a following wind.

What i failed to mention as i was so excited about our overtake of the group of men was that a young clourd guy was walking alomng carrying a skate board. He passed us while we were having a brew break. Once underway we passed him and he got on his board and started skating behind us. Gilly was leading and we were doing about 18 or19kmph - a reasonable lick. He followed for about 2km and just before he turned off he overtook me - i was well impressed and told him so. I got a great Caribbean smile from ear to ear. Along side the cycle route there is a scate route and occaisionally they coincide.

Tuesday we followed the route around the north side of the Bodensee, great, through Friedrichshafen where Count Zeplin resided and developed the Zeplin. They have a modern version which does tourist trips around over the lake.

Gilly does like her overtakes and we burnt off a couple of folk on electric bikes - not bad eh! After we had crossed by ferry to the southside at Konstanz, we were cycling through the town. I miss read the lights and thought the green light was for bikes - i ploughed on and we got serious vetbals from a lady in a van - i shouted back in a loud angry voice and gestured with my hand indicating i was in the right. However after a couple more lights i realised i had been in the wrong - so  dear lady if you are reading this - i appologise and withdraw my verbal abuse of you. Thank you for not running me down.

We are in Steckborn about 20km west of Konstanz in a great little hotel by the water. Pat & I swam, Gilly declined. The Rhine 3xit the Bodensee in about  15km but here it is slow moving, wide and warm.

Distance 60.56. Odo270.6km.

Some good news & some bad

BA flight to Zurich. We checked in and were directed to oversized luggage check-in as expected. There we met Mr "I don't give a stuff about your bikes" - he oused lack of interest and total lack of people skills. The x-ray machine was not big enough, he tried to stuff Di's through on the conveyerbelt and continued even when it hit the sides. Leave them here and I will sort it later. Yeah yeah we thought. We arrived in Zurich and our bikes had taken a bashing, dragged along the floor and the bags ripped into. We piled onto a train - piled yes as there were no bike spaces - and we totally blocked the end of one carriage. This pissed off a visually impaired woman and we received a number of comments  'bloody foreigners' I can imagine they were saying. An hour later we were in Zug being pampered by  Pat's godson Anthony and wife Mel and Annabel (6months) said hi as well.

Today - 3 train changes and arrived in Oberalppass at about 2.30. Great trains and pleasant journey and rail staff and passengers could not have been more helpful, I guess we are now in the country away from the hustle of city life. . That was all the good news.

The bad. This morning Di slipped in the shower and her wrist/lower arm has swollen badly through the day and it hurts. After a little sustanance the owner of our lodgings sent Di and Pat down to Andamatt (25mins by road) to visit a quack. Yep, you guessed, broken radius, needs to go further down the mountain to Altdorf to hospital. We are awaiting developments.

'Tis now Friday and we have a plan, Di arrived back from the hospital last night with tales of how good the medics were - all sorted via the European Health card. The plan is to ship Di's bike home and for her to follow us by train. I went down to the station with them, they are going to Andermatt to sort stuff out BUT I think they may have got on the wrong train and as I type are speeding down the mountain in the wrong direction.

We are having an extra night in Oberalppass, walking to the Rhine source this afternoon and starting cycling tomorrow.

Rhine - Source to Sea

Hi Ho.

We are off again in a couple of days back into Europe and the Alps. It is said that the Rhine is the most beautiful and picturesque  river in Europe. We are going  to find out.  Gilly and I are joining our good friends Pat and Di for an adventure exploring the Rhine. Pat and Di were our travelling companions  when we cycled down the Pacific Highway from Vancover to Mexico a couple  of years ago.

We fly to Zurich  on Wednesday and train to Oberalppass on Thursday. Pat & I will then walk to the source of the Rhine at Lai da Tuma - a lake about 2hrs walk from the pass. Our adventure starts in earnest on Friday with a fast 50km descent as the Rhine expands into fast flowing river. We then follow it to the sea.

Unusually for us, we will not be camping but will be seeking out small hotels and local b&bs.

Pat and I have been on a serious  weigh-loss regime with Slimming World, Pat in London and me in Ashburton. I am 4 stone lighter and Pat 5 stone lighter than when we last embarked  on an adventure. The Olympic  motto  applies - faster, higher, stronger. I cycle faster, I now beat Gilly up the hills and having  come off my beta blockers, I am definitely fitter and stronger!

We have had a load of grandchildren all week, the last go  tonight which  leaves us free on Monday to sort stuff out.

Looking forward to this and hope the sun shines.